maple and Ipe for Thrud
Thrud,look at this for some Birdseye maple and Ipe (ironwood) together.There's also a pic of my old Rockford no 3 mill. Bobby
Rob, as a woodworker i've always wondered how that joint on a pool cue is made. if you've got time i'd be interested to know.
btw, you've done some nice work
Fine woodworking a few years back had a great article on cue making. It may have been one of the B&W only issues (old). Worth a gander. It is interesting to note that many of techniques used in build up are also used with inlay banding - or were a hundred odd years ago.
Hint:The "points" are formed from the corners of pieces glued to the maple core which is taper turned.
I have a Huebler 18 oz. cue that is a little short for me. I bought it for 1/10 retail ($150 - two constant diameter forends inc. - sorry do not remember the correct term). My question to you is there a way to increse its length - I presume the maple fore shaft could be made longer with a spacer. Email me on this if you can.
Like the pictures BTW! Beautiful sticks, and great choice in wood.
[This message has been edited by Thrud (edited 12-26-2002).]
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments.
Andrew, the joint is a tenon and socket which is then drilled and tapped for a bolt that draws it up for a nice strong joint.
Thrud, the butt section can't be changed,(theoretically it can, but shouldn't) but a new, longer shaft can be made to give about 1" to 1 1/2" more length. If a spacer is added, it changes the solidity of the hit of the cue. You bet Maple rocks! Bobby
Oh yeah, remember the thread about when the tool is below center you get a taper from a straight cut? The cut for the point is a 90 degree slot cut on an angle to the center line of the blank. When it's then turned on the taper, that straight line on the outside of the point follows a curve!
[This message has been edited by Robert Jones (edited 12-26-2002).]