Yes it is the 12x36 that you mentioned except my lathe was assembled on a Friday evening at 4:45 PM - China time.
My schematics listed the switch as Hz5B-10/2D009 also and I have searched the Net for this switch and am going to start emailing some of the suppliers. If I cannot replace the original switch with one like it for a reasonable price then I think the guys have put me on the right track about replacing it with a drum switch that can be replaced or repaired locally. Haven't found anything I like yet.
I did not know if all of the Enco Lathes used the same control switch but I thought that I may not be the only one that has experienced this problem. I did look at the Harbor Freight 12x36 lathe and several others before buying the Enco model. I looked for new and used lathes for about 5 months before I finally ordered the Enco. I would love to have a used American Machine but I absolutely could not find a decent machine within 150 miles that would fit into my 28’x30’ garage. (I’ve got other things in there too – too many things.)
I have epoxied the switch and made a new housing to hobble by for now but I know it will not last long and will be replaced as soon as I find one. The longer I sit here and type the more I am leaning toward the drum switch.
Thanks again guys.
I will post a copy of this reply on HSM board as well...
Hold on with that drum switch idea, I don't believe that you need one. A drum switch is used to control a motor directly, by switching the wires as required for direction control. They are expensive because they have so many contacts that HAVE TO CARRY ALL THE LOAD of the motor. From your photos, it seems that in the control box there is a contactor(s) that does the real load wire swapping. The switch that pooped on you merely controls those contactors. Unfortunately, from the pieces of the diagram that you sent I can't be sure of the situation. The bad news is that I don't think I can discern the manufacturer for a direct replacement. (maybe the other guy's suggestions about Grizzly etc. would pan out.) The good news is that if my ascessment above is correct then any industrial selector switch will work for you.You can go to any good supply house (even graingers) that carries Square D, GE controls, or the like. You need a three position maintained selector switch operator. You also need the appropriate contact blocks for the back. They will have the right combination of normally open or closed contact blocks to build your switch. Bring the old contacts with you. If you do this, you will need to make an adapter to couple the switch to your control lever. HSM to the rescue - I'm sure you can make what is needed.
If you send me a photo of the whole control panel and wiring diagram I can confirm what I suggested above.
Thanks for replying and doing your homework and will post this on the board well.
I talked to an electrician/x-machinist about the switch problem this evening.
I could not take the switch back apart to show him the overall situation we are trying to solve because I had epoxied the swith back together and installed in back into the bracket.
There is one thing that is puzzling me about this switch setup - I have checked voltage to the switch with and without the lathe running and my voltmeter says zero voltage. Checked on all scales plus I checked for DC voltage as well. I also checked for a ground on all four wires going to the switch with the lathe plugged in but reset kicked out to prevent any shocking surprises. No continuity at all. I have the lathe running and I think you are right about not using a drum switch since I checked for voltage.
I am going to make a few electric suppliers since I have not found any cross reference to the numbers on the net. I don't think it will be a problem designing a coupling to another type of switch.
I can't take a pic of the whole motor control box since the lathe is anchored to the concrete floor and against the wall. I have made custom leveling feet for the lathe but have not had time to install them. (Big mistake putting a lathe against the wall and anchoring it to the floor.) Do you have an answer to the voltage not being able to be tested to the switch? The electrician says that they should not be continuity controlled.
Maybe I am just getting tired and losing focus......
It will be Monday before I can make it into OKC (about 75 miles one way) to look for a switch but that will give me time to study the switch a little more.
Thanks again Alan.
Did you check the voltage to ground?
Sorry for not answering earlier - server down over the weekend.
Yes, I did check voltage to ground. That was one of the things that had me baffled. I can not slide the lathe away from the wall at the present time.
Just got your email and I will take pics of the schematic and send to you.
That is odd. Please let me know if I can help.
Gents all I know of your control problems is what I read here. But if you are not measuring a voltage to ground, you may have a control transformer (lo Voltage) controling your relays (contactors). If so maybe neither leg is grounded and no voltage would be normal. This would also simplify replacing the switches- use low ampere , lo vaoltage switches that duplicate the represent present switching arrangement. Handfull of relays, diodes, and conventional switches can duplicate most complicated switches. As I warned you, I don't have a clue as to what your problem is, exceptingyou have a interesting one
DocSteve has written about what I believe to be the case - an ungrounded control transformer, reversing contactors and a pilot duty selector switch built up of normally open and closed contact blocks. Gator is going to send me photos of the complete schematics so I can confrim this situation and give him an exact parts list for replacement.
You may be onto something here on the control transformer. I have sent NSDesign a couple of pics of schematic and a link to the original manual for him to look at since my photography skills could use some improvement. I may not have an alternative to moving the lathe away from the wall to check into the controls if we can't find a replacement switch.
This is the link if anyone would like to look at the "Harbor Freight" copy of the manual (same manual I received with my lathe). Takes a while to download (if you have a slow connection like mine) to page 7 & 8 to look at the electrical schematics.