Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Stripped Threads in Casting

  1. #1

    Post Stripped Threads in Casting

    I had such great response to my last problem that I will try it again.
    The casting off my fast hitch on my IH CUB is a yoke of sorts. The solid part has a hole up the middle that has very broken or damaged threads in the middle. The threaded part was welded on crooked and when I got it out of the casting I could see why the casting got torn up inside. There is very few threads mostly just a rough area inside.
    I believe I have the threaded part about fixed.
    The casting is a leveling screw housing.
    This part is what I am not sure how to fix or repair. I am going to put this out for more suggestions. The casting with the threaded part is about 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter that does not include the yoke of the casting. The threaded part is in the middle with a large grease fitting in the middle of the threaded part. The screw was 3/4 inch in diameter. The threaded part of the casting is about 2 inches from each end and the part threaded is about 1 1/4 inches long. Inside Diameter of casting is about 15/16 of an inch.
    ______ ________xxxx xx

    ~~~~
    ~~~~
    _______________
    xxxx xx
    That is about the best I can draw with a keyboard.My hands are sure sore from threading about 6 inches of 3/4 iron.
    Thank You
    Mike


    ------------------
    cougar
    cougar

  2. #2

    Post

    The drawing did not post right. So much for show biz.

    ------------------
    cougar
    cougar

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Posts
    484

    Post

    Fabricate a new piece out of steel. Or cut off stripped section, turn up a new one and braze it on with lots of braze.

    I say braze because this part might be maleable iron. Brazing is the only practical method of joining to maleable iron. The elevated temperatures of welding processes reverts maleable back to white iron, which is brittle.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    2,362

    Post

    If I understand you right, you have a leveling box with stripped treads where the rod to the lift arms go. The threaded rod had a bevel gear on top? The better cheaper fix is to buy a new assembly. BUT: since you are probably in the "vendetta mode" now you gonna do it the hard way

    You must get new threads in the old hole, maybe a shim pipe threaded inside. braze the "pipe" im place. Usualy, if it's the type I am thinking of, the gears on the cross crank and buggered up also.

    I once just put a nut on top of the treded rod and set it with a rachet wrench.

    If you decide to use the original gears, be sure you shim the gear on the threaded rod up high enough to really meash with the other gear. Seems to me as though the threade rod gear gets too much clearance and starts rounding the other gears. Re bush every thing involved with the leveling box and keep the threaded rod well greased to keep it from seizing.

    Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Pass Christian, MS
    Posts
    978

    Post

    Buy a turnbuckle and install it in place of the existing piece. Turnbuckles are available and not expensive.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Claremont, NH
    Posts
    2,017

    Post

    Might be able to Helicoil this one. I use these quite a bit. Initial costs are high for the tools and taps, but the results are outstanding and solid. Check your local fastenall or automotive store for this, they might even do this for you.
    CCBW, MAH

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    1,669

    Post

    Cougar,
    I tried to ask this once before but I think that the site wasn't working right. You had a screw in a casting that was striped and wouldn't come out. I thought that it should be called a bolt, but now I believe it was a long threaded screw. The question that I have is how you were able to attach to the screw head, and apply a pulling force on it while turning it. This is a common and difficult problem to solve.
    Spence

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Arlington/Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    341

    Post

    Halfnut is pointing in a good direction. Cut off the bad section and turn a short length of the OD to form a pilot. Turn a new section with the threads and with a female counter bore to match the pilot diameter and then braze the joint. The pilot serves as a fixturing feature to insure alignment and also makes for a lap joint for brazing as opposed to a butt braze joint. Just my thoughts. As for inserts there is most likely not enough material to put one in and besides the reverse loading will cause it to come loose, be it a wire insert or solid insert. Also the L/D of the insert would be too short.

    ------------------
    Neil Peters
    Neil Peters

    When on the hunt, a broken part is better than no part at all.

  9. #9

    Post

    I bought a coupling nut cut it down to fit inside the turnbuckle. I cut off the old screw which was a S turn hand crank to raise and lower the leveling screw (tunbuckle) the crank part is near the seat on the CUB so it can crank the turnbuckle up or down. I have a screw to weld to the crank since the other was chewed up.
    I want to thank all for the help and if this does not work I will try the turnbuckle suggested by WJHartson I probably could get one at some tractor supply. I sure dont want to put out $120. for another hitch leveler.
    Thank All of You.

    ------------------
    cougar
    cougar

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    2,362

    Post

    Yesterdays northern hydralics catalouge has a bunch of three point hitch parts. Strike the "bunch"- they have several parts. One part is an 'Overrunning clutch"- price is less than I paid 20 years ago for same thing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •