First consideration: SAFETY. Think out every step and look for anything that can go wrong.
I had to put a mill-drill in a shop that is only 10' wide and that is at the end of a hallway that has a 90 degree turn. A second 90 degree turn was necessary in the shop as it's axis was not the hall's axis. Also had to raise it up to put it on the stand.
We used a pallet jack and pipe rollers to get it down the hallway and into the shop. The rollers were very helpful at the two turns.
In the shop we put it in place on the floor and assembled a motor hoist around it. We then lifted it high enough to remove the pallet and slide the stand under it. We bolted it down to the stand and lifted both together one last time to get the final position with the motor about one inch from the wall. The wheels on the engine hoist helped jockey it that last inch or two. That 10' width is a killer. There was another bench opposite the mill drill but we moved it down the wall for this operation.
I had about 3 or 4 others helping and we stressed safety at each and every step.
As for the mobile base, I'm sure it could be done, but I don't know if that is a good idea or not. A mill does not need the leveling accuracy that a lathe does but what about flexing and vibration. The head will need to be tramed to the table. Trust me, IT WILL. If you move it, will this change? Of course it will. How much??? And what will an off balance cutter like a fly cutter do in terms of vibration? Or just an interrupted cut. Yes, it may walk.
The importance of leveling? Lathes need to be leveled for accuracy. As I mentioned above, that massive, heavy, solid looking base of youir mill can flex and twist a bit. Half a thousanth at the base may be several thousanths after being amplified by the longer lever arm of the column. Actually, being level is not the real requirement. A lathe bed needs to be straight, not twisted. Leveling is just the practical method of accomplishing this. It would work equally well at a 1 or even a 10 degree angle if it remained untwisted. Same for a mill, but perhaps a little less critical.
Electrical safety. Your mill is almost certainly wired per code. The safety ground pin on the plug should be solidly connected to the frame of the machine and the motor. You can easily test this with the resistance scale on a multimeter. Any properly wired outlet that matches your plug should be sufficient. It's not hard but if you don't know how OR don't know the local and national electric codes, then get a qualified electrician to do it.
[This message has been edited by Paul Alciatore (edited 01-07-2005).]
Make it fit.
You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!