Hit 'n Miss Engine

[jbuckley]

A mate is having trouble getting Phil Duclos' "Ods 'n Ends Hit 'n Miss Engine" to run satisfactorily. Has anyone built this engine as set out in "The Shop Wisdom of Phil Duclos"? If so would they please advise of any difficulties they experienced in getting it to run properly.

Regards to all.

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John Buckley

[pstephens]

I built one about ten years ago. The only problem I had was with the breaker points, as they were designed. They kept corroding. I finally replaced them with a set of automative points:



These points are made to fit a '73 Dodge 360 V8 pickup, but they do just fine on the Odds'n Ends engine. Haven't had any problems starting or running the engine since.

Also, notice the counterweights added to the crank (the crankpin has been drilled out as well). It runs a lot smoother now.

pstephens

[This message has been edited by pstephens (edited 11-27-2005).]

[Sprocket]

I've built both the Maverick amd Whatzit engines, and in both cases found the initial needle valve setting he gives to be WAY too rich. I used the same size needle and hole the plans said but it worked best at 1/4 to 1/2 turn open, not the 2+ turns he said. I also advanced the spark to TDC or barely after. This has worked for both of his models I built. I used Coleman fuel instead of gas and either 2 cycle oil or 10% WD40. Also, a good run in on the lathe to make everything work smoothly helps.

[JCHannum]

I did build the Odds & Ends several years ago, and was somewhat successful in getting it to run. I could not get it to run on the governor however.

Replacing the points with an automotive set is a good idea, the scratch built set is a bit too much trouble to get to work properly.

His troubleshooting description is good, make sure you have good compression, the valves seat well, and a there is a hot spark.

Beyond that, it helps to spin the engine up with an outside power source, and gradually open the needle valve until it starts to run. It takes a while to break them in and get them to run reliably, compression will build as the rings seat in if all was done properly.

I have had better luck with Ozark Trail Camp & Fuel mix than Coleman fuel. It is available at Wal Mart, & is about the only thing I have bought from them.

Jerry Howell has some good tips on small engines, and sells a solid state ignition kit that might be of use. I have no experience with it, but it would adapt to these smaller engines.
http://www.jerry-howell.com/index.html#a5

[This message has been edited by JCHannum (edited 11-28-2005).]

[jbuckley]

HI,
Thanks for the replies rec'd so far. Geoff's first set of rings did not fit all that well and he had bypass. He made a second set and bed them in using a small electric motor and oil in the cylinder. We made up a cylinder pressure gauge and after awhile we were able to register 50psi with no perceived leak arounbd the rings. A leak did develop around the spark plug gasket and that has now been replaced. The engine did try to start and varied the spark setting. It would try to start but not run.

I have suggested that he change the fuel to Shellite, which I think would be similar to the Coleman stuff that has been mentioned.

I will be down at his place again this afternoon to check on him as his phone is out of order. Talk about a saga in trying to get the repairs underway yesterday. That is a story in itself.

He lost all compression at one stage but that was traced to fouling of the exhaust valve and that was quickly cleared with a blast of compressed air.

Any ideas and comments will be greatfully received as I have one under construction myself but I am a long way off completion.

I like the curved spokes on Mr Stephens engine. Were they done using Phil's technique?



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John Buckley

[pstephens]

Another thing to check is to make sure you're not using too heavy a spring on the intake valve. Remember that it is actuated by atmospheric pressure only. The intake valve on my engine takes just under 2 oz. to unseat.

Are you getting a hot spark? I suggest using one of the transistorized ignition modules (mine came from Floyd Carter AeroPlyCo@aol.com). I'm using a Modelectric coil, rechargeable ni-cad batteries, and a Stitt M80 plug. These are small components that you can fit in a neat, compact package.

For what it's worth, I've always run my engines on gasoline or propane (with a suitable regulator).

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jbuckley:
I like the curved spokes on Mr Stephens engine. Were they done using Phil's technique?
</font>

No. A friend of mine where I used to work did them for me on a CNC mill. I made the blanks from 5" dia. 12L14, and he milled the spokes. Took a lot of hand finishing by me to smooth out the tool marks before painting.

Good luck with your project!

[canman]

where would one get plans to make such engine?
e-mail jalgarn@comcast.net

[JCHannum]

The plans were originally in Home Shop Machinist. Reprints are in "The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos", available from Village Press, the host of this forum.

There are several other engines and projects in the book.