Can epoxy be wet sanded?

[cuemaker]

2 questions in regards to painting a lathe.

1. Can a 2 part epoxy be wet sanded?

I am using this epoxy and a base coat and the data sheet says that another suitable top coat of epoxy, urethane or acrylic maybe used for color but not a alkyd-oil topcoat. ( got a half gallon free of PPG "pitt-guard" from the PPG rep)

2. Does this eliminate the industrial enamels?

[PTSideshow]

don't see why you can wet sand or any kind of sand the epoxy, but as they say try on a small section or do a test coat piece before the main one.

As always follow the manufactures directions on the top coat or waxes. as the items in it or the top coat can and do react badly with each other. Causing a mess. nothing worse to clean up than a half a** dried or concegealed mess of epoxy.

[thistle]

you should not have aproblem wet sanding the epoxy.I should also imagine that after a week or so the expoxy should be fairly inert and as long as you washed it well with water and soap to remove any possible amines from the surface you shuold be fine putting anything on it.

[Frank Ford]

If you use kerosene as a lubricant, I think you'll not only find that it works better than water, but you'll also be able to use any kind of abrasive sheet, waterproof or not.

[aboard_epsilon]

If you use kerosene as a lubricant, I think you'll not only find that it works better than water, but you'll also be able to use any kind of abrasive sheet, waterproof or not.

if you use that stuiff as lube , you will have a hell of a job cleaning the residues off and getting the paint to stick after.

all the best..mark

[Frank Ford]

I must admit I don't do metal finishing, so my materials are a bit different, but for the last 40 years I've used kerosene or mineral spirits as my first choice for lubricating when block sanding finish to avoid any possibility of raising wood grain.

At least for my materials - primarily shellac and various kinds of lacquer, I've never had any problem with adhesion. Often my cleanup consists only of a quick wipe with a clean rag.

Could be that subsequent coats of epoxy or enamel aren't as friendly as my shellac, so cleanup might be an issue.

[CCWKen]

1. Can a 2 part epoxy be wet sanded?

I am using this epoxy and a base coat and the data sheet says that another suitable top coat of epoxy, urethane or acrylic maybe used for color but not a alkyd-oil topcoat. ( got a half gallon free of PPG "pitt-guard" from the PPG rep)

2. Does this eliminate the industrial enamels?

Epoxy primers MUST be sanded if you don't topcoat within 4-6hrs (Usually--Check the data sheet). Most of the epoxy primers are meant to be top coated, without sanding, within a certain time period. These paints are not like epoxy glues/resins that form a wax-coat during curing. If you wait too long, the surface becomes too smooth for paints to stick to it. That's the only reason epoxy primers need to be sanded at all.

Wet (water) sanding is about the only way to sand the stuff without clogging the paper. If the surface finish is to your liking--no drips, runs or errors, then you can just scuff the surface with 3M Maroon pads or the like. DO NOT use any oil based products over epoxy primers, if you want the paint to stick. And, don't use oil products to sand the epoxy. It will be near impossible to get it out of the microscratches of sanding.

Commentary: I don't understand the logic behind folks spending thousands of dollars on a machine and tooling and hundreds of hours reconditioning a machine, supposedly to last another lifetime, and can't spend less than $50 on quality paint. But hey, I'm more of a painter than a machinist so the reasoning is beyond me. I guess if you're just throwing color on it to get rid of it then maybe that's the support you need. It seems the offshore mentality is firmly entrenched in our minds--Just get it done, quality and longevity is of no concern.

[cuemaker]

Commentary: I don't understand the logic behind folks spending thousands of dollars on a machine and tooling and hundreds of hours reconditioning a machine, supposedly to last another lifetime, and can't spend less than $50 on quality paint. But hey, I'm more of a painter than a machinist so the reasoning is beyond me. I guess if you're just throwing color on it to get rid of it then maybe that's the support you need. It seems the offshore mentality is firmly entrenched in our minds--Just get it done, quality and longevity is of no concern. [/QUOTE]


Ken,

I know your not trying to poke at me to hard and you have given me excellent advice in private messages also. Lemme explain my thought process that I have been going through.

To start I only took apart the lathe to move it. Then someone suggested that since I have it apart, I might as well paint it. I thought it a smart idea! Plus it was very dirty and once I get it moved I would be working with wood and not metal an having a clean lathe without grease or grim would be a good thing.

So I start doing searches on paint on this forum and PM. I have read alot. Lots of different opinions and such. The one prevailing thought of which you just expressed, pay decent money for excellent paint. While I agree and I am the type to spend a bit more on something I want to last, my budget disagreed. To make matters worse, the good stuff that I could/can find only comes in gallons or more. To make extra hard, I need 2 colors.

Take polan b. 2 parts, about $81 per part. so I would get 2 gallons when a half gallon would be more than sufficient for $160. Then I need another quart of a different color forth the stand. While I can use a less durable paint for the stand, it would be hassle it seems.

So I read that some people use the TSC enamel products. The reason I was considering it was for to reasons. 1. Price $8 dollars a quart and I can get it in quarts. 2. My demands on the paint will be very little. Might bang a half pound of hard rock maple in it. It should stand up. But with an excellent paint, IT WILL STAND UP! with out the worry having to repaint it.

Then that bug gets in me again, "if your gonna do it, do it right". You help reaffirm that bug in a email by telling me that I can do better than the TSC stuff. You also tell me that I can buy an automotive paint in quarts for not to expensive.

I then luck out and the local PPG guy has a 2part epoxy paint called Pitt Guard in his garage that he gives to me free. I get a quart of the paint and a quart of the catalyst. But its a very ugly gray (cement color), and its goes on very very ugly. I figure it will be a good primer coat. Plus it gets my bare metal covered now as opposed to sitting there rusting.

So now I am looking for color. My search is on for a local auto paint supplier. I have made a couple half hearted attempt with out much luck.(need a columbus phone book)

And when I find that supply store, I am emailing you Ken,again, to help me make a choice.

This is probably way more than anybody wanted to know.

[claw]

Moores PBE
3211 W. Broad St.
614-272-2255

[cuemaker]

Damn claw, thanks!

Reasonable too (it seems)

MTK Acrylic Urethane by PPG
quart of color 19.65
pint of hardener 12.35
Gallon of reducer 19.00 (only size)

Draw back, it dont brush on good, ment to be sprayed.