Gee Guys, if you have not had your blades come off, that is a very rare.
I have had my 'honey' for 22 years and it cuts terrific.
I have fixed maybe 10 saws when guys have seen mine. everyone threw the blades. most were completely out of allignment...As Paul mentioned appropriately above.
The other issue not mentioned is a problem with design !
The blade tensioner is "SOLID"..you use a thread to apply tension to the idler wheel. this is totally wrong and increases tendencies of the blade to jump.You want "Spring tension" style This is because with solid, any "load induced on the blade INCREASES its tensile Load heading to Yield. so a tooth hanging up can/will shear itself off ..not good Or the blade will get "longer" allowing it to fall off ( this can be caused by chips getting between the wheel and blade as well)
To fix it, fasten ( Loctite!) some allthread to the idler crosshead right where the current rod is threaded. Drill out the threaded hole in the frame so the allthread comes out cleanly about 4 inches. mount a heavy car valve spring with washers on the threaded rod, and take a new round handle that is tapped and spin it on. as you tighten against the spring, keep applying torque till the blade sings when snapped. You now have a spring loaded adjustable idler that is very forgiving of chips and varing loads