Drill chuck on and off's?

[A.K. Boomer]

I just ordered a couple arbors for my drill chuck, its a Jt 6 1/2" and i already had a R8 arbor, now I'll have a MT3/JT6 arbor (for rotary table) and a 5/8 straight shank to JT6 (for quick change Tool post), my question being is what do you guys use to take the chuck off one JT 6 and put it on the other without butchering anything? thanks.

[J. R. Williams]

To remove the chuck use a pair of "Chuck removal wedges" They come in pairs and have the correct gap for the chuck and arbor. Any good supply catalog should show a photo of the set. You might have to drill the internal back of the chuck and use a punch if the arbor does not have a shoulder for the wedges. Another option is to drill the arbor for a cross pin so the wedges will work.

JRW

[Adamad]

They make wedges for the press fit chucks - different set for each taper. Check out use-enco.com, search on drill chuck wedge

[A.K. Boomer]

Sorry for thinking outloud before a reply but why wouldnt they use the leverage of the chuck itself (be it keyless or not) to "self pry" itself off of the arbor in the fully extended opening mode? if not that do you think it worthwhile to bore and tap a hole directly in the center of the chuck so an allen bolt can be inserted through the chuck opening?

[BadDog]

Order a set of Jacobs wedges. Or, you can sometimes use a pair of hardened dowels to persuade the two apart. And on some chucks the center can be drilled-n-tapped to put a screw in for pressing out the arbor.

But this is not something you want to do on a regular basis as a normal mode of operation.

[JCHannum]

The allen bolt through a tapped hole in the chuck is the method to use in removing a Jacobs chuck from it's arbor when the wedges don't work or can't be used.

BadDog is correct however, the installation of a chuck on a JT is considered semi permanent and the intent is not to swap adaptors on a regular basis.

[Forrest Addy]

You don't. You mount them on the Jacobs taper and leave them. If you need to istall a chuck in an R-8 taper you get another chuck.

Jacobs tapers were intented for semi-permanent mounts. If you try to mix and match among several shanks you wind up with spinners and drop offs.

[SGW]

Ditto on what Forrest said. If you try to go swapping them around, you'll just begging for problems.

If you want to use a drill chuck in multiple places, you may be able to use a straight shank. For instance, use your 5/8" straight shank in a 5/8" collet on your milling machine. You don't need the R8 adapter.

[aboard_epsilon]

Yeah....once them JT6's are banged in its almost impossible to separate them...wedges or no wedges ...without damaging something or buggering it up.

you will have to knock so hard on the wedges ...that they will indent what ever they come up against.

I've read about people cooling down the arbor and heating up the chuck ...and in conjunction with the wedges... though ...they still had themselves a difficult job on .

all the best..mark

[Paul Alciatore]

Expanding just a bit further on what Forrest said, in the past several years I have acquired a bit of a collection of drill chucks. I have about 4 or 5 that have adapters for my SB tailstock and even one with a taper for the headstock (handy for drilling work mounted on the cross slide). It is very handy to change chucks instead of tools in the chuck. It can save a lot of time when you are making multiple parts. In addition I have two for the mill/drill, two for my Unimat and a couple that I have not even put an adapter on yet. They are handy for some hand work. I frequently mount a countersink or drill in them for deburring and other work. Good for cleaning out a hole with a reamer also.

I look for sales and buy them as they become available. A couple of times I purchased two at a time when the price was right.

In short, use your money to buy chucks, not adapters and wedges. You will have a lot more versatility in the end. And you won't have problems from damaged Jacobs tapers.