Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Drill Rod question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    23

    Question Drill Rod question

    I do not understand the designation for drill rod, oil or water hardened. Does this refer to the hardening process used during manufacture? Or is the method that should be used to harden the rod once it is formed or ground to my use?

    Thank you,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul James
    I do not understand the designation for drill rod, oil or water hardened. Does this refer to the hardening process used during manufacture? Or is the method that should be used to harden the rod once it is formed or ground to my use?

    Thank you,
    It's the method you use to harden it after it's formed.

    Walt

  3. #3

    Default

    There was a good discussion a while back on hardening both.
    Last edited by JPR; 10-31-2006 at 12:59 AM.
    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    6,730

    Default

    Hi Paul. Here's my take on the topic in general. Others may see it slightly differently and offer other views.

    As Dancing Bear says, it refers to the quenching medium you should use when you want to harden a part after machining it. Water and oil will cool the part at slightly different rates. Oil will cool slightly more slowly, which has the practical effect of causing somewhat less warping of the part. For any given part, this may or may not be important. It may also somewhat reduce the possibility of stress fractures, again depending on the shape of the particular part, this may or may not be a concern.

    The composition of oil-hardening steel lets it harden properly with the slower quench, whereas water-hardening needs the faster quench. Oil-hardening steel is generally more expensive than water-hardening, but in a home shop the amount used isn't likely to make that a significant issue.

    A good reference to all this is the book "Tool Steel Simplified" published by the Carpenter Steel Company. It uses the proprietary Carpenter Steel Co. names for the different types of steel, but you can generalize it pretty easily. I don't think it's still published, but used copies aren't too hard to find. Its general premise is: start with water-hardening. If your application needs the special properties given by oil-hardening (or air-hardening, or shock resistant, or wear resistant, or whatever), then select the variety of steel that will give the properties you need. But the starting point is water-hardening. If there is no particular reason to use something else, use water-hardening.

    At least that's the industrial approach. As mentioned, in a home shop the cost savings aren't likely to be an issue, so you might want to standardize on oil-hardening for simplicity.
    ----------
    Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
    Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
    There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
    Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Western New York U.$.A
    Posts
    7,266

    Default

    When making chisels for engraving I preferred the oil hardening variety. I found if you quenched in 10 wt parafin base motor oil into the center of the can and didn't swirl it around but held it still it was self-anealing and was ready to use. I was making 1/4' diameter chisels and using a chicken soup can near full. That's just to give you some idea of size relationships. It worked to perfection.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •