gmm22: I wouldn' want to set a 40lb plate on a small part and small grinder that I was trying to hold tenth's on, too much risk of moving the part or dinging it. The magnetic chuck is usually a fairly large chunk of metal though and I suppose that it is doing the same thing you are talking about. Also those magnets are pretty strong and are likely to grab your plate if it is a ferrous material.
A mister will help cool things down real quick, also just walking away for a moment and taking a bathroom break works pretty well. If you do use a mister or a spray bottle you need to clean up pretty quick because the swarf will harden when it sits there and dries, then you have to use a chisel or something else to scrape it off.
Keeping your wheel sharp and dressed when it starts to load and not taking to heavy of a cut also help keep the part from getting to hot in the first place
Baddog: I dont have any good suggestions for the cabinet, maybe moldmonkey will take pictures of his though and since it is the same one as yours you can use that as a starting point.
As far as diamond size, I think this would work for you, you could buy a holder or just make your own, I would go with the latter
Last edited by mochinist; 12-24-2006 at 02:13 AM.
I am curious, what range of material thickness is typically removed during a grinding pass on a workpiece area of say one foot square? Is surface finish quality the main advantage over regular milling?
When I am using the big grinder, taking a pass that removed .002 would be a big cut,.0005 to .001 is much nicer on the wheel and the part, when you get down close to where you want to be I start dropping the wheel a .0001 per pass, and then let the wheel spark out when you think you are on the money. On my smaller grinder with no coolant .0005 is a heavy cut, just because of the heat that is generated. again your cut size liek everyhing else depends alot on the material and the hardness o the material.
Originally Posted by gmm22
Surface finish and being able to hold a tight tolerance are the main advantage for sure, you would be surprised at how rough that milled finish is when you take your first pass over it with a surface grinder.
>I've been told these things (surface grinders in general) sorta float the table on a film of oil that is constantly oozing out.
Look at the rear of the machine below the base of the casting which houses the spindle assembly.You should see a hole in the sheetmetal. This is where the oil will drain to if the machine is level. What type of oil system does your machine have? One shot? Or the resovoir below the chuck accessed by removing a screw? I would reccomend removing the table and saddle for cleaning as the oil system works from the top down taking oil as well as sludge with it over the years. I disassembled/cleaned/reassembled mine (same grinder) in about 6-7 hours. This include removing the motor/spindle assembly. I did not tear the spindle down as there is nothing to clean with the sealed bearings. While you are looking under the machine see if the rubber covers are still on the y axis leadscrew. You can get a replacement cover from Mcmaster carr (close enough to work)
Grind the chuck in with a 32A60-H8VBE wheel taking 2-3 .0001's per pass with a .050 stepover with the chuck "on".
I would reccomend a Norton or gesswein 1/3 K diamond. Don't get in a hurry dressing the wheel. Remove about .001 per pass.
Sorry, I'm an idiot on the posting of pictures thing and today is not the day to ask SWMMC. She’s in full holiday mode. (Merry Xmas everyone by the way.).
The stand is pretty basic. Just a sheet metal box with a door and two shelves. The grinder does sit in a recessed area where any fluids will collect. If it was me I would weld up an angle iron frame. Maybe set an elcheapo tool box in the space underneath for storage of the precision tooling so grinding dust doesn’t get on everything. I have mine sitting on a rolling frame with leveling screws as space is at a premium.
For the lathe tool tilt block, it’s two pieces of 1”x3” welded into a upside down T-shape.
The base has an angle milled about a 1” wide running along two sides on the bottom so it can be tilted either way. The upright has a tapped hole for a strap clamp to hold the lathe tool. A picture would make it a lot clearer than my writing.
I found some pictures on Ebay:
Last edited by moldmonkey; 12-24-2006 at 12:53 PM.
Been in trades (machinist) for 34 years. Not as long as some members., Unfortunately long enough to mention be very careful with a surface grinders spinning wheel. Let me tell you it removes finger hand flesh bone with an incredible speed. Take it easy till you get the knack of running it. Talk to experienced toolmaker machinist grinder operators for tips. I just wanted to say that. Merry xmas. Mike
The Boyar Schultz uses a waste system for oiling, not all grinders use this. When you start the grinder up pull the knob out on the pump, this will prime the pump and then it should continue on its own. The oil used will flow thru the system and if all is there, should drain into a small pint sized metal can on the back of the machine. We always poured it thru coffee filters and then back into a jug to be used later. These machines go thru alot of oil if not reusing, especially when they ran 10 hours a day 5 days a week all year long. We also had 6 of them. The rack & pinion drive is the weak link on these machines compared to a Harig with a cable drive. They are good machines all in all though. Instead of a 5c spindex I would opt for a Harig grind-all, many more uses.
As for dressing the chuck a 60 grit wheel is to fine, try a Norton 38A46-GVBE or HVBE bond wheel. Oil the chuck lightly (spindle or way oil) to help with heat and make sure when you dress the chuck the magnet is turned on. Mark lines with a marrker and then take off .0001-.0002 per pass until cleaned up. Place the rear rail back on the chuck and dress it with the side of the wheel. I am only 43 years old but I have logged literally 1000's of hours on manual Harigs and Boyar Schultz grinders doing form work and electrodes while building injection molds. If you want to suck heat out of the part faster and your not using a cool mist or wet setup try a plate of flat aluminum about 1/2" thick.
Last edited by Mcruff; 12-24-2006 at 10:06 PM.
Much of this stuff I'll undoubtedly dig out with search, but if you feel like taking time to offer your thoughts, it'll be much appreciated. I'm sure there are lots of uses beyond the obvious "making things flat" and putting a nice finish on stuff.
Bad dog: Yes there are alot of neat things you can do with a surface grinder . I would suggest that you check spindle squareness first ( you will need it square to do slot grinding).Then follow McRuff's outline of grinding the mag in.Mochinist and the others are giving good advice IMO.
BY the way if you ever hear of a mag being scrapped ,grab it as it can be cut up into parallels, very handy to have.
I also found handy a v block with a wide slot milled through it.A simple example would be to holding a bolt in the v-block thus allowing the head to hang over in to the slot .I do not know how to post a pic here but i could email a pic directly to you to explain what i mean. Chris
Thanks, I'll PM you and email. But I think I know what you mean.
Also, I wound up with some stuff in a "box lot" from an auction that I didn't need before, but I'll have plenty of use for now. That included "magnetic" (laminated) v-blocks, 123 blocks, and some odd angle blocks. I've got a v-block sorta like you describe, but it's not a laminated block.
BTW, what is it about the laminated blocks that makes them better for magnetic work? It's been too long since I had this is Physics, but is each alternating layer non-magnetic to break (shorten) down the fields for better locational stability on small parts?
Oh, on the oiling system. This one seems to have a gravity feed system. Their is an oil bulb up on the top of the tower with a Gits reservoir. Then there is another large Gits in the front of the table.
Also, is it correct to assume that this machine is critical to mount level? I thad originally thought to put it on rollers so I can (usually) roll it outside to keep the grit of the other machines. But, if it must be very level to oil properly, this won't work as my shop drive is sloped several degrees.
Last edited by BadDog; 12-26-2006 at 01:31 AM.