Ugh, setscrew on threads???!

[oldtiffie]

Most of the methods suggested for re-placing the nut are only variations of the method that caused the problem in the first place.

An old old method of making a "shake-resistant" (as opposed to a "shake-proof") nut is to cut/saw it half way through at right angles to the thread and then compress or close the gap made by the cut in one of several ways:
- close it in a vice until it "sets";
- hit it with a brass/bronze "dolly";
- drill the outer part to be a clearance fit on a selected thread, drill and tap the inner part, fit hex or socket-head screw and shake-resistant washer, fit modified collar onto its original thread on (lathe?) spindle to required "torque", tighten socket/hex screw to suit.

To remove, just slacken off tightening screw and use "C" spanner or similar.

And no more need for the original problem screw or risk of damage to the spindle thread.

These methods are "oldies" but they work!!!

[S_J_H]

Don't go and bull moose the collar nut off with pipe wrenches. What's wrong with you guys offering advice like that? You watch too many Schwartzenegger movies. You'll damage the threads; quite possibly ruining them.

There's a better, gentler way one that uses intelligence and craft instead of stupidity and brawn: put the deformed metal back where it came from.

Forest, Perhaps you are right to advise as you did. But please do not call my methods stupid. Machining is relatively new to me but not wrenching and fabrication!
But I guess I have to agree if one is new to this type of situation then a little more careful method as you suggested is in order.
Steve

[Forrest Addy]

S J H. My words were never meant to ridicule but to shock and cause reassessment. However you were correct in taking exception. I was unneceessarily offensive so I amended my post.

Here's your original words: "Tony, Grab a big pipe wrench if you have to for that collar. If you mar it then just re turn it to make it beautiful. It's just a threaded collar.

"The threads will be very easy to restore with just a threading file if they burr up a tad during removal. Squirt a little oil into the threads beforehand."

Please don't be upset with my lack of concurrance but I'd never reccommend a pipe wrench on a retainer nut except in the last extremety. Why risk damaging the threads in the first place? It's hard to reconcile your advice with damage free-disassembly possible with widely used methods. With a little care and technique, you don't need to risk damaging the threads or marring the nut. My words are but echoes passed to me by my mentors years ago. They are as apt today as they were then: there's no need to cause further damage with disassembly methind and adding to the work of repair if a little care can accomplish the task without damage.

In your post you go on to illustrate the proper use of a heavy hammer in dissassembly of precison made machinery. I prefer to use the word "nudge" in this connection but your words suggest the care necessary when using a big hammer to pursuade the movement of tightly fitted parts. I've used a big hammer in just such a way many times. One of my favorite mantras is "you can do more damage with a little hammer than a big one."

[tony ennis]

Being a startup shop, I don't have a lot of tools capable of reaching into the small set-screw hole. I did have a small Craftsman screwdriver. I put it into the threads, pushed hard, and turned the collar. Repeatedly. This improved the threads. Finally with some force I was able to get the collar off. The spindle threads look ok.

Now there's the back gear. This is also threaded on, and held secure with a key. The key isn't a tight fit at all, but it seems captured. The gear turns a little before so it shouldn't be hard to get off once the key's out. The key is tricksie, I haven't figured out how to remove it. It's in a mating slot on the spindle and a slot on the gear, but neither slot seems large enough to accept the entire key and allow the spindle to turn.

But I'm not in the mood to fool with it tonight.

[KiddZimaHater]

Never mind, you were too fast for my reply.

[pressurerelief]

Forrest,
You would have gotten along great with my father. He always kept his cigars in the same tool box drawer as the hammers. He said he did this so when he got the urge to go to the hammer he would instead take a puff on a cigar. He would think for a minute and go with the hammerless alternative if one was viable.

Rick

[Carld]

That's interesting. Your saying the gear is threaded on the shaft and there is a key in keyways to keep the gear from turning on the shaft. I have never seen a setup like that.

It is posible that the force of the gear doing work may have put thread marks in the sides of the key and that is holding the key in the slots. I assume the end of the keyway in the gear and shaft are cut all the way out. If you can grab the end of the key with vise grip pliers and twist the gear back and forth the key may come out while you are pulling on it.

I see you are in the Lou. Ky area. I know of about 4 of us that are here. There may be more.

[tony ennis]

I assume the end of the keyway in the gear and shaft are cut all the way out.

Nope. The key seems captured. My suspicion is that it will come out but the slots have crud in them preventing movement, or the key isn't rectangular and you have to shake the spindle vigorously whilst doing the hokey-pokey. Then it will fall right out. If you're singing Kumbaya.

This is a Timken spindle, not quite the same as mine, but I bet the key to the left end is the same.



Maybe it's the lighting, but that key seems not-rectangular.

[Carld]

Tony, are you related to Wendel Ennis, in Nelson Co. I think?

[tony ennis]

I do seem to recall the name, but I don't know if that's him.