In my old shop I had a homemade woodstove my dad picked up for me. It was made of 1/4 plate, had a large door on the front to feed the wood. Make sure you are able to just place the logs in so that you are looking at the ends of the logs as you open the door. It's much easier to manipulate and pack that way. The ash drawer was missing so I sealed it up with a plate with a couple row of holes and a slider in front of the holes. This allowed me to control the air getting into the furnace. I cleaned the ashes out by removing the great every month.
Originally Posted by winchman
It is mandatory to have total control of the air input or a run-away fire can net you a chimney fire. I went to a fireplace store and bought the door sealing rope and installed it. The firebrick on this furnace was only on the floor and about 6 inches up the side. As for the baffle, it only has to slow down the smoke/heat a little my making it go around the baffle before reaching the chimney. With no baffle I had little heat. When I installed the baffle plate about half the diameter of the stove I all of a sudden had a great furnace.
I found out with each lighting you get the fire going real good and that cleans out the chimney and then you slow the burn rate down. Let it burn hot too long and you have the dreaded chimney fire. I had too big a chimney for my furnace, it was 8" and cooled off too quickly allowing cresote to form much faster in the top portions of the chimney. My next wood stove I used 6" stainless insulated pipe and after 4 winters of use, I kid you not, it was damn near clean when I removed it to sell. (I got propane ceiling mount shop stove now!)
Just remember, if you get too greedy and want to keep all the heat in the shop and not let enough go up the chimney then the system will soot up pretty quick. Same thing happens if you are too stingy with letting enough air in so the fire will burn longer overnight.
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