Valve Guide Replace IHC 113

[SouthBend9]

I want to replace the valve guides in my IHC 113 overhead valve engine . I think it requires the head to be preheated to 350 deg F. Then the guides can be press or pulled out . If have any tips on this task I would to here about them before I proceed. I Tapped on them with a brass rod and they didn't move so I assume heat and a arbor press is the method .

[Carld]

You will have to make a press mandrel to fit inside the guide and be slightly smaller than the OD of the guide in the valve area.

From the photos it looks like you have to press them out from inside the valve area. It looks like they shoulder on the spring side of the head. Usually you have to use an installing tool that only allows them to go so far but yours may have a shoulder on them.

I don't remember ever having to heat heads to remove the old guides on heads I have done. I can't remember if I have done an IHC head or not. A good press is needed.

Are you absolutely sure they are removable. Have you checked with IHC or looked in a manual.

If they are not egg shaped or worn to much you may be able to knurl them or ream them oversize and use oversize valves.

[wierdscience]

I have used a mig gun to weld up the inside of each end of the guide.After the weld cools the guide shrinks and can most times be driven out with a punch.Some guides are shouldered on the bottom(cylinder side) some are shoulderd on the top(rocker arm side) and some have no shoulder.Might get the new guides and look at them to see what's needed.

[jcarter]

I have removed many guides by tapping the guide with a suitable sized tap and installing a lenght of threaded rod. I have a set of special "washers" to go in the valve seat then I top that with a nut and pull out the guide.The washers are tapered so they self center in the seat. Normal washers will work too. It's not often I have had to use heat using this method.

[Gary Reif]

I've replaced hundreds of these valve guides. I usually drove them out from the combustion chamber side of the head using a driver I made with about an inch long pilot about .005 smaller then the ID of the guide and the body about .020 smaller then the OD of the guide. This is a much better fix than knurling or reaming oversize. If your not sure about your aim with a large hammer make the driver long enough so when the guide is driven down you don't get to close to the head surface, or place some plywood on the head surface to protect it. When you get ready to install the new guides make a spacer to set the height above the head when you drive them back in. Be sure and measure the old valve guide height before you remove them. Make a washer to put on the driver so it will contact the spacer when the guide is at the right height. What size are the valve stems? I've used a 3/8 bolt inserted in the guide in some heads and drove the guide out using a long drift. The bolt works good to drive the guide in also.
Gary

[Tim Clarke]

A slick way to change valve guides is with a driver made to fit your air chisel. I've got a few somewhere, from years ago. Seems like one of the tool companies had them in their catalog

TC

[Carld]

You can remove them with the air chisel tool but don't install them with it or you will be reaming them out to remove the distortion from beating then in.

Use a press to install them.

[Flying-Phantom]

Before driving the guides out, measure the length from the top of the guide to the spring pocket. Then install guides to within a few thousandths of the original dim. unless the guide has a shoulder then drive the guide home. I don't remember any head that required the guide to be driven from the spring pocket side toward the valve seat side however, I do know you can destroy a head ( big block chevy ) if you drive the guide that direction. We always drove the guides from the valve seat side towards the spring pockets.

[SouthBend9]

I made up a 1/2 hex head bolt with a guide to fit into the bore of the valve guide. I used a 20 ton hyd . press the bolt and valve guide out of the head.
Now to get them back in.
I'm going to use the hex bolt and a aluminun sleeve to contact the valve giude when I install. The sleeve is soft and it is to deform and protect the sleeve from damage. Since the Valve Guide has a angle , I used a drill bit 120 deg to contact the valve guide better at the pressure contact to valve guide. I also made the aluminum stop block to set the correct valve guide height of 1 inch above the head . I have to remake this block to a new bore of 9/16 which is the od of the valve guide. I put a 5/8 hole in this one. Was in to much of a hurry and did not think this out . The block can set the height an be a good guide to install i into the head. Without any help I need to use all the advantages I can to install as true to head bore as possible. Any suggestion ? What did I miss ?

[Carld]

You made a pressing tool much like we used.

The old guides had a shoulder on them I see and I thought I saw that in the first photos.

You say the guides are not perpendicular to the head surface, that is they are on a slight angle. Is that right? If so you may want to shim the head up untill the guides are verticle.

I would get a piece of 3/4" to 1" stock or another bolt that size and turn it down the way you did the 1/2" bolt. That would leave a shoulder to bottom out on the one inch block you will use for a spacer. If the spacer is a slip fit over the new guide then when it is on the guide flush on the head and you press the guide in, the shoulder on the shaft will stop on the block and set the guide to the right height.

I don't understand about the aluminum sleeve thing you are talking about. If you mean to protect the guide you don't need to protect it with anything. Just press it in, don't drive it in. I always used oil on the sleeve to install them.

You may have to run a reamer through them. We always did just to make sure they had the right clearance.