Alumirite

[dvk]

Has any one ever worked with that product that is advertized on tv. called Alumirite, supposed to be able to weld (solder) metal pieces together with a special aluminum rod and a propane torch.

if anyone has used it is it as good as they advertize it to be, and what are the pro. and the cons. about it?

Thanks
Dave...

[Evan]

It is possible to braze some aluminum alloys. As for "soldering" I don't know of any product to do that with aluminum. There is a product called Durafix to do aluminum brazing. Also works on zinc and pot metal. I've done this before and it doesn't work as well as they claim. Aluminum conducts heat so well that it is hard to get the part to the required temperature unless it is small. The Durafix rod melts at 732f and you run the risk of overheating the work. In bright light aluminum melts before it glows noticeably. Also, it is very difficult to get the aluminum clean enough. Bare aluminum immediately forms an oxide layer when exposed to oxygen and you can't braze aluminum oxide. You have to do a constant scritch-scratch action with the rod on the work to break the oxide layer. They advertise that you can use a propane torch to do it but thats a crock. A standard propane torch runs with an oxidizing flame and just makes the problem worse. You would want to use an oxy-actel torch with a reducing flame. Best, get a TIG welder.

PS: I've done a lot of welding, aircraft certified.

Also, If you are looking to buy an oxy-acetelyne welding rig look find someone that will sell you tanks instead of renting. My wife sells welding supplies and she is the only outfit in town that sells tanks. Much cheaper than paying the rip-off yearly charges.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 06-19-2003).]

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 06-19-2003).]

[Mike Burdick]

Dave,

I'm not familiar with Alumirite but there are several brands on the market that will weld Aluminum using a propane torch. I use some from Forney (Easy Flo Aluminum Rod, Catalog Number 46112-0) and repair my irrigation pipe with it. The cost is around $12.00 for around 30, 1/8" dia - 18" length sticks (the wt wasn't listed on the package) and can be purchased in most welding supply shops.

It works great! Directions call for the welded joint to be cleaned with a stainless steel wire brush (must be stainless steel) and then heat with torch - solders like lead - doesn't need flux either. It also is a strong weld.

Try some, it's not that expensive, and may do just what you wanted.

[Evan]

Mike,

Glad to hear it works for you. I have not used the those products for some time now, they must have improved the product.

[abn]

Never done it myself, so this is not the voice of experience...Just passing along a site recommended on another BBS (for good service) the page is informative, but also a sales pitch...

http://www.neymetals.com/tips_for_ney380.htm

[tenfingers]

Another aluminum solder is the tinman's aero solder at

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/alumi...g_.html#solder

Never used it, but the tinman seems trustworthy.

10F

[Evan]

He's calling it a solder but with a melting point of 780F it's much closer to brazing. The problem with these products is that the high temp is enough to change the mechanical properties of most aluminum alloys that are either heat treated, work hardened or both. Hardened aluminum alloys will anneal at temperatures ranging from 300F to 600F. Virtually all structural aluminum, be it in boats, irrigation pipe or aircraft is hardened by one or both methods. Repairing with these high temperature "solders" will drastically alter the mechanical properties and create a weak area. In some cases this doesn't matter, in others it could be hazardous. Don't try to repair a cracked aluminum bicycle wheel, frame or a brake master cylinder for instance. To give you some idea of the strength difference 6061T6 aluminum used in bike frames and wheels has a tensile strength of 45000 psi. If annealed this drops to under 10000 psi.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 06-20-2003).]

[SGW]

It works...but I don't think I'd trust it for anything that's load-bearing.
You'll also find that, with a piece of any mass, it takes an amazing amount of heat to get the aluminum up to temperature and a propane torch may struggle.

I got mine at a show someplace; a friend and I split a package. I've still got most of it. The sales guy was soldering soda cans together. It works real well for that!

[dvk]

Thanks guys, I may have mislead in the description of what I was meaning, it isn't aluminum rods I dont think but rather some sort of alloy rods, I have the web address to this product maybe this could explain better.. http://divescoinc.com/

Thanks again for all the input...

Dave...

[CCWKen]

Nay-sayers all - I don't think anyone that uses the "rods" is building an F16, Interstellar Craft or a Nuclear Power Plant. The stuff works for what it's intended for... Quick, inexpensive repairs. It won't pass most "standards" but it does have a place in the home shop and comes in mighty handy if you don't have a TIG or MIG setup.
As others have said, the joint must be clean and NOT anodized.