Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Bijur type pump oiler on a Chinese Bridgeport clone

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    N W La.
    Posts
    1,817

    Default Bijur type pump oiler on a Chinese Bridgeport clone

    On my ENCO Bridgy clone I have a Bijur type pump oiler --- but it AINT a Bijur and consequently doesnt perform like one! Three outlets. one to left knee way, one to right knee way, and third to a manifold for distribution to table, screws, etc. The left knee side gets the majority of the oil, the rt get some and unless I pump the crap out of it, very little get to table, etc.

    The 2 knee lines DO have the Bijur metering units/fittings but are apparently sized wrong and are allowing way to much flow to those points. Looking on the Bijur site, they show the fitting but nothing about how to determine flow rates --- Mine appear to be the FJB types and the sizes start at FJB-3/0 and continue to FJB-5. (is the 3/0 the smallest restriction and the 5 the largest?? or other way round??) The fittings on my pump, while appears to be exactly like the FJB, mine says HJB with the #10. (any way to know what my # 10 relates too??)

    I would like to get 2 more units that were more restricted and stem some of that flow to the knee ----can anybody give me some info on this.....

    If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9,030

    Default

    Im going through the same thing right now, i think instead of taking orifice stabs in the dark im going to build a junction box with needle adjusters and check valves.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Mapleton, IL
    Posts
    2,283

    Default

    At around $10 each it may be a bit expensive to take a stab in the dark. I have called to Bijur for help and part info and they were very helpful. They do, however, have a minimum order so if you only need one or two, you may do well to go to one of the parts suppliers like H&W (also very helpful).

    http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/s...157/page/45029

    My guess, however, is that you do well to only step down one size where you are getting too much flow. It will force more to the other side and I find it hard to imagine that even though you can see the difference, that there is very much difference in restriction to cause the imbalance.

    You may want to check parts listings available in a PDF on the bijur site. I want to say that the fitting directly mounted on the pump is a check valve, but not a metering orifice??

    I have a bijur that came on my Bridgeport, but is off now, so I can check all the metering unit numbers if that would be useful to you?

    Paul
    Paul Carpenter
    Mapleton, IL

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    N W La.
    Posts
    1,817

    Default

    Well, now I've got MORE troubles!!

    Went to re-assemble the lines on the pump and promptly broke the upright portion of threads out of the 4-way fitting on top of the pump -- truly crappy type of zamac/pot metal? Been sitting here prowling the web looking for something to replace it with, and coming up empty ......... any suggestions on this??


    If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Mapleton, IL
    Posts
    2,283

    Default

    If it ends up costing too much for parts, you can buy a new import one-shot from Enco for like $78 if I recall correctly.

    Here is a shot of the implementation on my Bridgeport. Bijur makes a tee fitting that is knee mounted and that's what they used on mine. It will take some fittings to change what went out of the tank top on yours so that you can get to standard fittings so you can remote-mount the tee.

    Edit-- you may be able to fabricate what you need too, if you can figure out the threads. If I recall correctly, the fittings actually use a 5/16-18 thread since they use a compression ring, they don't need a tapered thread. You might have to make a form tool to turn the seats, however. My guess is that about anything will work for the seat if the dimensions are right....all they need is a clean point contact all the way around. For the larger thread on the piece that goes through the lid, thin brass nuts are available at the home center in the brass fittings that fit on standard tapered pipe threads.

    Paul

    Last edited by pcarpenter; 08-25-2008 at 04:32 PM.
    Paul Carpenter
    Mapleton, IL

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    N W La.
    Posts
    1,817

    Default

    Paul, I saw that unit at ENCO, plus a couple others, but I cant determine what it will have for connex coming out of them. Thats a good price, but If they dont have a suitable conx, I'm as well off to keep my pump and try and plumb it. I'll probably end up having to cobble up a similar set-up to yours.

    I figure its worth a try with this group, -- so many times somebody will have a solution.
    If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    shreveport La
    Posts
    2,682

    Default

    Bill you got a mill and a lathe just make the fittings . You also have one to copy. Msc sells the restrictors and so do Mc master Carr The higher the number the more oil low # less oil. I would put a # 5 on the knee

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9,030

    Default

    You made me feel better about my situation --- thank you

    Im still seeing threads in that bad boy, can you mill the top flush, drill it lower in and just run a tap further down, maybe have to chamfer in some relief slots so the other side oilers "git thars"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    On the Oil Coast,USA
    Posts
    16,872

    Default

    Might I suggest a cheap adjustable restrictor?

    Common hardware compression style needle valves,most hardware stores have them for a whopping $1.98.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    9,030

    Default

    Bill -- weve got almost an identical set up as do most knee mill one shots but of course different brands ect.
    I just spent about 2 hours in the basement with about three beers

    The two culprits are of course the shortest runs - the left knee and the left Y way, I have two main feed lines like yours and they both do have check valves which I verified worked --- what i ended up doing was just going to the pipe itself, ( I noticed you may have plastic on some in which you might be able to melt and drill )
    My pipe is aluminum, I shut it down on the ends and then drilled it --- it really surprised me as I at first went .040" and figured it would be over kill and id have to drill bigger --- not so, i ended up with about .020 on those two fittings,
    Now everything gets super juicy with a couple of pumps, those two were steeling most of the lube, there was a total flood on the left side knee and now they run equally and not too much either, the two top Y ways run about the same and even the rear X way is happy so im happy too -- the leads are gushing extra and im fine with that.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •