Harbor Freight Micro mill.

[john917v]

I've been considering getting the Harbor Freight Micro mill, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158 Or, the Mini-mill, which is a bit bigger. I know of the quality of them, and I am ok with it.

My question is, can I just put a cutting bit in it, and start milling, or do I have to buy collets/collet holders, etc.? Thanks in advance.

[LES A W HARRIS]

I've been considering getting the Harbor Freight Micro mill, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158 Or, the Mini-mill, which is a bit bigger. I know of the quality of them, and I am ok with it.

My question is, can I just put a cutting bit in it, and start milling, or do I have to buy collets/collet holders, etc.? Thanks in advance.

MiniMill01

The Manual for this machine is available as a PDF file download, personally I do not like milling with the cutter held in a drill chuck, as they instruct in section 4.
But with a 2 Morse spindle…

9. Answerers your question… the Micro Mill/Drill Machine is ready to use.

For technical questions, please call 1-800-444-3353.

3. Place the work piece on the Worktable (part #105) and, if possible, firmly secure the work piece to the Worktable with clamps (not provided).
(See Figure B, and Assy. Diagram.)
4. Insert the shank of the drill bit/cutting tool (not provided) all the way up into the Chuck (part #132). Then, use the Chuck Key to tighten the Chuck onto the drill bit/cutting tool. NOTE: There are three tightening/loosening holes in the Chuck. Make sure to use the Chuck Key in all three holes.
(See Figures B, and C.)
REV 08/03


9. After testing the machine in Forward and Reverse position, evaluate the ma­chine’s operation; check for loose or damaged parts, wobbling of the chuck or any other unusual situation. If the machine appears to be operating normally, the Micro Mill/Drill Machine is ready to use.

Cheers,

[SGW]

If the drill chuck is on a taper shank, using it to hold an end mill is definitely not recommended. The side loading, combined with the downward pull of the cutting forces, can walk the chuck off its taper, probably giving you more excitement than you really want.

If it's a screw-mount drill chuck that wouldn't be a problem, but a drill chuck really isn't the thing to use to hold end mills, in any case.

[Teenage_Machinist]

DON"T GET A MICRO MILL! IT SUCKS REALLY BADLY! GET A MINI MILL INSTEAD!


Buy collets from Little Machine Shop. 3/8 will get you started as most end mills are that size.

But really get a mini mill instead, it is way better


Use a screwless vise, I reccomend. 2 inch or 3 inch anything larger will get in the way. Or "precison milling vise"

Little Machine Shop sells clamping kits for both



DO NOT HOLD END MILLS IN A CHUCK. USE USA OR OTHER GOOD END MILLS ONCE YOU GET PRACTICE.

[saltmine]

I agree with the Teenager...Besides, the Mini mill has an R-8 taper and drawbar. I've used the daylights out of mine. And yes, you can use an end mill in a drill chuck, if it's an R-8 collet on the taper. At least you won't have to worry about the chuck rolling out of the taper.

I used mine with the chuck until I got my set of R-8 collets...Of course, I made very light cuts with small end mills also...

I've converted mine to belt drive, and eliminated the plastic gears in the quill.
I also went through a "learning curve" of vices, eventually ending up with a Kurt clone which I disassembled and rebuilt...Scraped all of the sliding surfaces, and removed all of the slop in the clamping jaw. A good mill vice will make you look good long before you are..

I also had to tram the table once, and adjust the table gibs on both axis' before I could get some decent accuracy out of it. The lead screws needed adjusting a bit, too...I also threw away the original hand wheels, and replaced them with balanced steel crank handles.

[huntinguy]

I must disagree with anyone who says you can use a end mill in a drill chuck. yes I have done it in a pinch but I understood the risks ....

1: a drill chuck (most of them) are held on a taper, usually a Jacobs, and it is not designed for a side load. It will eventually give and the chuck will fall off the R-8. It is not a question of the taper in the spindle it is a question of the taper in the chuck.

2: A drill shank is soft and the jaws of a drill chuck cut in or crush the drill. An end mill is hard and the jaws of a drill chuck will set on top and not grab the end mill.

John, let me put it to you this way. You are going to spend several hundred dollars for a machine. For the sake of another 50 or so, do you really want to risk damaging yourself or your new toy?

(just my opinion and experience talking)

[LES A W HARRIS]

MiniMill02.

John,
re-read your post you did say you were considering the Minimill,

(Or, the Mini-mill, which is a bit bigger. I know of the quality of them, and I am ok with it.

My question is, can I just put a cutting bit in it, and start milling, or do I have to buy collets/collet holders, etc.? Thanks in advance.)

The PDF download for that machine (44991) lists it as an R8 spindle, but the write up refers to a tapered spindle? If an R8 should be OK, your question on holders. Yes you will need some R8 collets at least to hold end mills, the drill chuck provided will hold your drills to its capacity.

Specifications
ITEM DESCRIPTION
Power Consumption 120 VAC, 60 Hz, single phase
Motor 4/5 HP
SpeedRanges 0 ~ 1100 low RPM and 0 ~ 2500 high RPM
Spindle R-8 Taper
Chuck JT33 Taper; 7/64 to 1/2 inch capacity
End Mill Capacity 1/2 inch
Face Mill Capacity 1 inch
Drill Capacity 1/2 inch
Micro Feed Scale 0.002 inch per line
Depth Scale 0 to 12 inches in 1/16 inch increments
Table Slot Width 1/2 inch
Table Size 15-7/8 (L) x 3-11/16 (W) inches
Unit Height 33-11/16 inches
Weight 115 lbs.

Checks before Operation
1. Turn on the machine by lifting the cover and pulling out the Emergency Stop Switch
(137).
2. Turn the Speed Control Knob (134) and verify spindle speed changes.
3. Verify that the spindle is rotating clockwise.
4. Operate the Longitudinal Axis (Working Table), Cross Axis (Saddle Seat), and Vertical
Axis (Vertical Support), and verify their proper operation and movement.
Caution: Avoid injury to you or damage to machine. Unplug the power cord from the
electrical outlet before performing any adjustments, tool replacement, or maintenance.
Installation of the Taper Shank Cutter
1. Pull off the Protective Cover (126).
2. Wipe the spindle sleeve and taper of all dirt and grease.
3. Unscrew Clamp Bolt (101) and remove Dust Guard
(100).
4. Place the Taper Shank (B) into the Spindle (79) sleeve. A sketch shown here clearly shows a TAPER Spindle.
Cover the Cutter (C) (not included) end with an oil cloth
to protect hands and machinery.
5. Insert the Fixing Pin (accessory D) on the right side of
the Spindle sleeve. Refer to page 4.
6. Using the #14 open end wrench (accessory G), tighten
(clockwise) the Spindle draw bar (A) to lock in the Taper
Shank Cutter into the Spindle.
7. Pull out the Fixing Pin and replace the Protective Cover.
Removal of the Taper Shank Cutter
1. Pull off the Protective Cover (126).
2. Insert the Fixing Pin (accessory D) on the right side of the Spindle sleeve.
3. Using the #14 open end wrench (accessory G), loosen (counterclockwise) the Spindle
draw bar (A) to unlock the Taper Shank Cutter in the Spindle.
4. Using a plastic hammer, gently tap the Taper Shank (B) until it breaks free.
Place a cushion on the Working Table (19) to protect the assembly if it falls out.
5. Replace the Taper Shank Cutter with the Drill Chuck (or other tool) if desired.

Cheers,

[Teenage_Machinist]

Some minimills (Grizzly and Micro Mark) have MT3, others have R8.

LittleMachineShop has tooling packs that include a set of crappy endmills, a vise, collets, basically everything you need. Griz comes with 2 collets

[BillH]

I got by with the X1 micro mill, for 269$ what can you expect? I use an X3 now, a little better.
I don't care what Mill you buy, just realize you will spend just as much for tooling. So if I was you, I would buy a mill that uses R8 tooling just in case you want to upgrade to a bridgeport one day...

[saltmine]

R-8 is a tapered tool. So calling an R-8 quill a taper is correct.
I'd be leary of a mill that uses an MT3 taper...That's what most tailstock tapers are on lathes, and regular drillpresses.

I like the idea of R-8 collets, much more accurate, safer, and upgradeable when I finally buy that Bridgeport.