Oops, killed my X3 speed control

[BillH]

Well I was drilling holes in the column to mount my new DRO for my X3 mill. I had a wood backplate clamped between the sheetmetal and the speed control to help keep chips from getting to the speed control. Well when the drill popped through, it slammed the wood backplate into the speed control. The power light lights up, everything seams to be fine except the motor will not run. The yellow fault won't light up no matter what unless I hit the red stop switch.
I am sure not paying nearly 200$ for a new board, guess It is time to knock the rust off my electronic technician skills. Anyone have a problem like this on their X3? Maybe I broke a trace on the pc board, hopefully that is it.

[oldtiffie]

Bad luck Bill.

I hope that it is a simple quick repair.

I had that in mind when I had the column cover off my X3.

I had fitting DRO's to my X3 in mind but I couldn't fit the "etched glass" type or their covers to my "X" or "Y" slides as they took up far too much space. The "vernier caliper" type were not much better either.

Can you please post pics etc. of how you have or intend to get it done as it will be a big help.

The "glass" type with an accuracy of 0.0002" is better than the "caliper" type accuracy of 0.001" andf I'd like all the "full on" DRO features as well.

I bought the X3 to be retro-fitted with CNC but that is "on the way" (sometime) and I get by pretty well withoutbDRO's but I'd like to fit them anyway.

[BillH]

Bad luck Bill.

I hope that it is a simple quick repair.

I had that in mind when I had the column cover off my X3.

I had fitting DRO's to my X3 in mind but I couldn't fit the "etched glass" type or their covers to my "X" or "Y" slides as they took up far too much space. The "vernier caliper" type were not much better either.

Can you please post pics etc. of how you have or intend to get it done as it will be a big help.

The "glass" type with an accuracy of 0.0002" is better than the "caliper" type accuracy of 0.001" andf I'd like all the "full on" DRO features as well.

I bought the X3 to be retro-fitted with CNC but that is "on the way" (sometime) and I get by pretty well withoutbDRO's but I'd like to fit them anyway.

I bought the Meister S2000 DRO. The glass scales it came with do fit the X3 very well. There are pictures of one X3 with this DRO installed on the webpage.


and


As for the repair, I can not see any damaged parts... And I KNOW it is something simple... Damn damn damn...
HAHA, I am NOT going to spend 200$ for a stinking piece of **** SCR speed control for this thing, thats what they want for a replacement board? Are they insane?

[wierdscience]

Well Bill that sucks.If comes down to it,Minarik sells a controller for shunt wound DC motors that would most likely work just fine,Less than $100 IIRC.

KB electronics does one similar for a few dollars more.

The board in my X2 is about to take a dump,when it goes that's probably what I'm gonna do.

[oldtiffie]

Thanks lots Bill - sincerely as your advice and pics make it very clear.

My big concern is - was - the lack of covers over the scales - which according to the manual are pretty water-tight.

How have your DRO's performed - so far?

I will check my mill and get back to you.

The DRO in your pics seems to be the same as mine - perhaps they all are from the same factory and just re-badged mostly - as Lazlo says.

Best of luck with your "fix" of your X3 speed/motor controller.

[lugnut]

Bill, I know it would be too simple of a fix, but on my X3 the order that you turn on the main power switch and the forward/ reverse switch make a difference if the thing will power up or not. I don't remember which one comes first I check in the morning. The first time I tried to run it after hauling it home, it acted dead and then I figured out the sequence of the switches and it worked fine.
Just a thought
Mel

[oldtiffie]

Thanks again Bill. The pics did the job as it will fit.

Just a couple of items though.

I will fit an adjustable bolt/stop to the back of the apron as it actually goes back far enough to contact the column and so will/may crush or impact on the "X" slide DRO.

Further to Mel's (lugnut) comments - quite true - I had a problem with poor construction of the motor fuse holder in the back of the column. It sometimes worked - other not. The only really poor part of/on the whole mill. I will replace it with a newer better unit.

[Edit]
This just came in by email from LittlemachineShop.com - very interesting.

Any thoughts on it?

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3568&category=
[End edit]

[BillH]

Thanks again Bill. The pics did the job as it will fit.

Just a couple of items though.

I will fit an adjustable bolt/stop to the back of the apron as it actually goes back far enough to contact the column and so will/may crush or impact on the "X" slide DRO.

Further to Mel's (lugnut) comments - quite true - I had a problem with poor construction of the motor fuse holder in the back of the column. It sometimes worked - other not. The only really poor part of/on the whole mill. I will replace it with a newer better unit.

[Edit]
This just came in by email from LittlemachineShop.com - very interesting.

Any thoughts on it?

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3568&category=
[End edit]

Lugnut and oldtiffie, I precisely tried to turn on the mill using the incorrect switch sequence and the correct one. In either case, the yellow fault light will not light up like it is supposed to, never mind the motor not running. The green power light does in fact work, so there is power running through it, at least the regulated power for the leds.
As far as the DRO, well you see... I was going to mill up some mounting brackets to mount my scales to the mill. I can't do that now, not until I fix the damn speed control. Maybe I will turn the locomotive wheel castings on the lathe...
That DRO from littlemachine shop is the shooting star one. It uses mechanical scales, not as accurate and more expensive than the glass scale ones.

[strider]

Bill,
Go here: http://www.unclerabid.com/Repairs.html
This guy does flat rate repair on a lot of the small lathe & mill boards. I haven't used him since I don't have those types of machines, but from what I've gathered he does good work. Not affiliated etc., etc.
Art

[websterz]

I did something similar on my 7x12 lathe. I was moving the control box above and behind the lathe to make room for a longer dial indicator. When I drilled thru the control box for a mounting screw the bit chewed 2 traces on the back side of the board...lathe was dead in the water. I pulled the board and located the damaged spots. Using the hot tip of the soldering iron I uncovered enough of the ends of the breaks to tin the traces and soldered on a couple of short jumper wires. When I was done I borrowed a bottle of nail polish from my daughter and resealed the repairs. That was a year ago...lathe runs like a champ!!