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Thread: Morse taper drill sharpening

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arizona
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    275

    Default Morse taper drill sharpening

    does anyone know if there is a place I can get some Morse taper drills resharpened? I have picked up a small number of drills 1/2 and larger that need sharpened and reshaped but I do not have the means to do it right now.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
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    4,622

    Default

    Where are you located? There are T&C sharpening services all over the place. I know of several in Missouri and they normally charge between 2 and 8 dollars to sharpen anything from taps, to endmills to drill bits.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Missouri, USA
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    Default

    Fasttrack, could I get that list from you as well?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
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    Supreme Grinding Co.
    Phone: 314-772-7332, 800-815-7332 (toll free)
    Fax: 314-772-8559 Address:
    2225-T Gravois Ave.
    St. Louis, MO 63104-2847


    Cutting Edge Tool Service
    Phone: 417-532-1816 Address:
    23941 Green Hills Rd.
    Lebanon, MO 65536


    U.S. Tool Grinding, Inc.
    Phone: 573-431-3856, 800-222-1771 (toll free) Address:
    34 Birch St.
    Desloge, MO 63601

    I'm sure there are a bunch of others, too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    SE OZ
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    1,966

    Default Tapered cutters or tapered shank?

    Are these parallel drills with a morse taper shank to drill plain holes or tapered drills that are similar to an MT reamer - ie with tapered cutting edges?

    The former should be able to be sharpened either by hand on a pedestal grinder or else using a larger than normal drill-grinding adaptor.

    The latter will certainly need a good tool and cutter grinder and operator. Not all T&C grinders will cut tapers - but a universal grinder will. A CNC-ed T&C grinder will do it easily. Evan's CNC-ed mill which he has used as an excellent T&C grinder will do it easily - I was hugely impressed to see Evan's mill as a T&C grinder sharpening (normal) helical end-milling cutters without a "finger" or guide.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arizona
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    Default

    Oldtiffie
    These are just plain drill bits with a morse taper

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    6,572

    Default

    like OT says, nothing special about sharpening them being MT then except it implies they're bigger.....like Fastrack asked, where are you?.....entirely up to you of course, but generally the guys here like to say an approximate location, especially helps for posts like this.

    purely out of curiosity, what's a professional sharpener charge for say 1" drill?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arizona
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    Default

    Opps thought it was in my profile, I am in central Arizona

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
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    SE OZ
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    1,966

    Default Get 'er done!!

    Quote Originally Posted by rolland
    Oldtiffie
    These are just plain drill bits with a morse taper
    Thanks Rolland.

    I sharpen all my drills by hand even though I have the stuff to grind it precisely. I was taught it as a basic skill when I was an Apprentice - its never left me (like riding a bike I suppose) as I keep in practice. I use the face or the side of an 8" emery wheel (no need for Aluminium Oxide wheels if the emery wheel is kept dressed and sharp) on my pedestal grinder.

    Here is my set-up on my tool & cutter grinder - which I rarely use as it is a PITA to set up and clean up after unless there is a lot to do.









    The wheel is an aluminium oxide "cup" wheel. The chuck is a very accurate long-nosed 6-jawed chuck that goes down to about 1/8" and grips the drills on their outer "lands" - so it doesn't matter if the shanks of the drill are hexagon, round, chewed-up, bent or morse taper.

    The grinder head has an axial reciprocating cam action. The drill angle and rake and clearance angles can all be set. It can do web thinning,splitting and pointing as well.

    But I hack off a lot of the trailing faces of the front clearance (with an angle grinder or the pedestal grinder) as it saves a lot of unnecessary wear and sharpening/dressing of the wheel.

    Why not use one of your drills and a simple drill guage to hand-sharpen one of those taper-shank drills. You will pleasantly surprised at how relatively easy it is - and it will be a big achievement and a "feather in your cap" as well - may also have considerable bragging rights too!!

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