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Thread: 1895 Nagant conversion

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Missouri, USA
    Posts
    1,332

    Default

    Rusty,
    Unfortunately this one is on the back burner for awhile. I've got too many other things that need to be done before I can devote any more time to this right now. (Dang priorities!)
    I do appreciate your input on this, as I now have a plan of attack for when I do get back to it. Couple of things I will have to work around though....

    The only indexer I have is a 5C, so that isn't going to help any.
    I do have a rotary table but I only have a 3-jaw chuck for that. I'll just have rely on a roll of tape to get her dialed in if need be. I have been using the rotab on my drill press and just discovered the mounting holes for horizontal use do not match the slot spacing on my new mill - naturally. Also discovered that there is very little space between the base and the table circumference for a hold down nut or a table clamp. I already ordered extra short T-slot studs because the shortest ones in my hold down set are still too long.

    The fact that you mentioned a drawing previously proved to be a major breakthrough for me however. Never in a million years would I have believed that I would find drawings for this gun, but somehow I managed to stumble across some. I think I have the angles and dimensions now for these cuts, but if anyone would be willing to accept an emailed copy of the cylinder.dwg file and verify for me - it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    6

    Default the correct case to use for these in the orig cal

    is actually .32 sharps SS brass. but fiocci makes the real deal and it is re-loadable. the berdan priming is no big deal and the orig. cases reload easily use a can opener de capper. The .32-20 reforms to make a slightly short version of this case, but you have to thin the rim. this revolver has no throat in the cyl. and really needs a case that runs the full length of the cyl. to shoot well that is why the .32 sharps SS brass works well ( you have to thin the rim a bit) also the .310 cadet brass works.

    as to re cutting the notches it can be done in a vise on the mill using plugs in the charge holes and an angle block, and work stop and dovetail cutter.
    Last edited by weestrommer; 09-02-2009 at 12:27 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Missouri, USA
    Posts
    1,332

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by weestrommer
    as to re cutting the notches it can be done in a vise on the mill using plugs in the charge holes and an angle block, and work stop and dovetail cutter.
    Ahhhh! I like that idea of using pins in the chambers and an angle block. Sounds much easier than trying to indicate each of the current "short" notches. I have to ask, what is the benefit of using a dovetail cutter? The drawing I have shows an included angle of 135 for the notches.

    Of course, I had to tell SWMBO that I HAD to order an indexer and tail stock in the mean time.....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Northern Neck Virginia
    Posts
    496

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    At a boy! talk her into all the toy, er tools you can.
    Ignorance is curable through education.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    6

    Default I just mentioned

    using a dovetail cutter out of habit and I have a lot of odd ones that I made up for cutting ratchets for custom made cyls. for revolvers for so many years. I have discovered over the yaers that revolver cyls, use very basic geometry for the most part if you really sit down and look at them. and that lends itself to very simple fixturing in a vise for making them.

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