Page 60 of 357 FirstFirst ... 1050585960616270110160 ... LastLast
Results 591 to 600 of 3563

Thread: Shop Made Tools

  1. #591
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    31,565

    Default

    More likely they want you to be locked-in to them.........

    Lots of lathes have a proprietary taper in the spindle...... ones above MT3..... where ya gonna go to get the adapter?

    proprietary electrical connectors....... where ya gonna go?

    odd screw sizes...... where ya gonna go?

    Thanks, Glenn for the tip.......

  2. #592
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    19

    Default Drilling round stock

    This is a really great thread.

    Here's a tool that I haven't used yet!



    "V" block made out of 40mm across the flats hex bar welded together with hold down "tabs" at each end. Centred using a cone morse 3 centre, once centred, tightened down with studding and "T" nuts.



    The round to be drilled is centred with the same morse centre (you can't see it, but there's a centre-punch mark to line it up.



    Drilling the hole. I had to make extra long hold downs. In this picture is my 'Denbigh" pillar drill manufactured between 1930 and 1960 the table is dead square to the column. I regularily drill 50mm holes with it, I have to use a morse 3 to 4 adapter.

    Unlike a lot of people, I make a lot of my hold downs, I've learnt a lot making things like "T" nuts!

    Regards, Matthew

  3. #593
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Carbonear, NL Canada
    Posts
    1,424

    Default Couple of tools

    Here is a pic of a "DRO" for my Colchester 15 x 50"


    A vee roller on a long threaded stand. I use it for bandsaw work and long shaft work on the mill.A piece on angle iron, some scrap brass and two 6006 2RS bearings.
    please visit my webpage:
    http://motorworks88.webs.com/

  4. #594
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sturgeon Bay, WISCONSIN (near Green Bay)
    Posts
    1,112

    Default

    My home shop made CNC router.......A tool in itself
    Last edited by Deja Vu; 05-31-2010 at 06:42 PM.
    John M...your (un)usual basement dweller

  5. #595
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I just joined HSM the other day and have been glued to this thread from page 1. And the one thing I noticed? Clean shop or messy shop, quick and dirty or precision hardened and ground- everything was very ingenious made by skilled people and "necessity is the mother of invention".

  6. #596
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    2,437

    Default

    I'll post a newb pic. I'm making a powder horn and needed to taper the pour spout's hole so the stopper would fit more securely. I made a single-edged tapered reamer in about 10 minutes using a piece of home center bar stock, a hacksaw, and a file or two. The taper of the tool is 1/32" over 1 1/4". This tool worked well enough in horn but wouldn't have worked in harder materials.

    The cherry stopper fits the reamed hole. Good thing I fixed my lathe's compound!

    Last edited by Tony Ennis; 06-05-2010 at 10:22 AM.

  7. #597
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    177

    Default

    I little surface gage I made. The only parts I cheated on were the brass knobs (Lowes).


  8. #598
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    31,565

    Default

    been meaning to put together the T&C grinder for a while....... Finally did it with an "interim" grinder spindle, a Dumore 44....

    made it a 'finger", found some centers, and it's now sharpening things. need to make it a center reference, to make the offset down a little easier. Sharpening "off" the edge for now.

    Finger could be a bit higher..... it worked this time anyway






  9. #599
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    shreveport La
    Posts
    2,691

    Smile

    Now thats what i`m talking about (Get Her Done)

  10. #600
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    31,565

    Default Another tool for the grinder

    To set up for sharpening, you need to set the wheel on-center with the cutter, and then either move off-center, or adjust the tooth rest to get the relief.

    While you can use the surface gage as a reference, I decided I wanted a nicer tool..... so I made a center gage for it.

    In place on the grinder table. The long arm is to reach the center of the wheel




    Close-up showing hole for set screw to hold the blade. the business end is the flat on the underside of the tip




    Close up of bottom showing the two holes for set screws to set height and parallelism of the flat on the blade. (No they are not symmetrical.... my nutty idea about fulcrum, probably could be symmetrical)

    Last edited by J Tiers; 06-13-2010 at 09:38 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •