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Thread: Shop Made Tools

  1. #671
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Topeka, KS
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Wow, I hadn't checked out these thread in a while. Lots of good stuff. Keep them coming.

    My version of the Royal chuck stops. Cut out of 6061 1/2" x 6" plate. Spaced out from the chuck face with SPACE BLOCKS.

    Edit: I've faced them. Hopefully they won't warp as thin as I got them in some spots. I'll just have to keep an eye on them.



    Last edited by moldmonkey; 11-17-2010 at 09:00 PM.
    Jon Bohlander
    My PM Blog

  2. #672
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Topeka, KS
    Posts
    467

    Default

    A fixture for holding small rods, bolts, etc. for cut-off on a vertical saw.





    A modular knee tool for my second op lathes. Sorry for the poor second pic. It shows it set up for spotting, facing & OD Chamfering in pull of the handle.



    Jon Bohlander
    My PM Blog

  3. #673
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Topeka, KS
    Posts
    467

    Default

    A tapping tool for the second op lathes. I wasn't aware of the release & spin style of tools at the time so I made a compression style holder. Works fine as long as you are quick to plug the motor.



    Jon Bohlander
    My PM Blog

  4. #674
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Topeka, KS
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Good ol' tapping guide





    Drip-oiler for parting-off, knurling, etc.

    Jon Bohlander
    My PM Blog

  5. #675
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Just want you all to know that you all are bastards!

    Here I was getting my to-do list down to a size that I would get done before I die, and then there is this thread with lots of great ideas for tools and stuff, some of them I didn't even know I needed.

    Thanks Brian for starting the thread and to everyone else for keeping it alive. As soon as I remember to take the camera out to the shop, I'll add a couple of my own tools.

    Scott

  6. #676
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Chilliwack, B.C.
    Posts
    9,202

    Default

    Chuck stops! That's my very next project! Today I made a cutoff tool holder and a cutoff guide for the toolpost. Tomorrow its the chuck stops in two thicknesses.

  7. #677
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    1,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by baldysm
    Just want you all to know that you all are bastards!

    Here I was getting my to-do list down to a size that I would get done before I die, and then there is this thread with lots of great ideas for tools and stuff, some of them I didn't even know I needed.

    Thanks Brian for starting the thread and to everyone else for keeping it alive. As soon as I remember to take the camera out to the shop, I'll add a couple of my own tools.

    Scott
    Hi Scott,

    You are very welcome.

    I hear you on the to-do list thing.

    One thing at a time.

    Brian
    OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

    THINK HARDER

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

  8. #678
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Chilliwack, B.C.
    Posts
    9,202

    Default

    A few pics of this simple project. The morse tapered stop piece with threaded adjustment bar, and the wrench to adjust it-

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Inserted into the spindle taper-

    [IMG][/IMG]

    With chuck in place- here it's set to give about 1/2 inch of material in the jaws behind the face of the jaws.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The diameter of the face on the adjusting bolt is just under 1/2 inch. There will be another adjusting bolt made if I need it to be a smaller diameter. The bolt is a friction fit, which I got by choosing a galvanized bolt over a chromed one. I polished up the bolt so it wouldn't chew up the threads in the pvc piece, and gave it a bit of grease. This was a carriage bolt, chosen to give enough of a head that I could machine it to give me a decent sized flat on the end. I also machined away the squared portion directly behind the head, reducing that diameter to 5/16 for this 3/8 bolt. That way I can screw it right in til it touches the plastic. It goes about as deep as I'll ever need it to, but if I do need it to be deeper, I can just cut off some of the plastic. The threads go in a bit over an inch, and the bore is drilled out from the other end to 3/8. No need to thread it all the way.

    I could have simplified this and just used a normal bolt, but I wanted to be able to grip material down to about a half inch. This would have meant turning off the hex on the bolt head, leaving no way to adjust it. Otherwise I could simply have used a socket wrench. An alternative would have been to re-grind a hex head for a smaller socket, but I chose the pin wrench instead. If I need to use a smaller diameter adjusting bolt, I'll be forced to grind a hex onto it so I can adjust it. No way I'm going to cheap out and put a simple slot on the end of it. I hate those slippery flat blade screwdrivers-
    Last edited by darryl; 11-18-2010 at 10:23 PM.

  9. #679
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    348

    Default

    I am sure a lot of people use this but I have not seen it here before. This is a piece of brass or whatever you have in your scrap bin cut to fit the T slots in your mill table. The top end has a countersunk SHCS to lock it in place and a rounded head to insert into the hole in the bottom of most vices. I mount the vice on the brass piece and it makes the vice easier to tap into place when you are tramming. I made the captains wheel or speed wheel because I hate the handles that come w/ vices. The spokes are threaded so you can remove one if they stick up in the wrong place.
    thanks
    ed


  10. #680
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    636

    Default SouthBend 5C Collet Chuck

    I imagined that a 5C collet could be pushed in instead of pulled. In this way, the operator would not need to always be messing with a collet closer on the back end of the lathe.

    So here's my try for my SB 13 lathe.



    View of the two tapers in the body of the chuck.



    Here's a little tool I made to tighten the "closer."



    And the tool in the lathe.

    Vitória, Brazil

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