Page 86 of 205 FirstFirst ... 3676848586878896136186 ... LastLast
Results 851 to 860 of 2042

Thread: Shop Made Tools

  1. #851
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    4

    Cool 5C SPIN INDEXERS - the truth

    Quote Originally Posted by rolland
    This idea I picked up on another web site it was posted by Mr Glass, he was reluctant to post here so I picked up on the idea and thought I would share it. The idea is to take out the endplay that is common with these spin Jigs, as it is maintained by a ring with set screws that come loose.

    A bushing with two lock rings installed over the barrel and held in place with roll pins.

    I've seen this mod done by several people out there. It seems that many people use these 5C Spin Indexers for MILLING, rather than for their intended purpose of GRINDING. Although it is a cheap tool that some people choose to use for milling indexed parts, it is really not meant to be used this way.

    The spindle collar with the set screw that you have eliminated and replaced with threaded locking collars was meant to allow for setting spindle travel while grinding cylindrical parts on a surface grinder. Hence the name, "SPIN INDEXER." It is not for "removing endplay from the spindle."

    For example, if you hold a 5/16" shaft in a 5C collet in the spin indexer and want to grind the end of the shaft down to 1/4", you would SPIN the spindle while lowering the surface grinding head a fraction at a time until the 1/4" diameter is achieved. However, you are limited to grinding an area only as wide as the grinding wheel if you lock your spindle with threaded collars. The Spin Indexer normally allows you to loosen the set screw in the spindle collar and slide the collar back as far as you need to allow adjustable movement of the spindle. This way, if you want to grind the end of the shaft down to a 1/4" for a distance of say 1.5" along the shaft, you can set the collar 1-1/2" back on the spindle and lock it with the set screw. Then, you can spin the spindle while sliding the shaft forward as you grind to cover a greater area of the shaft. The collar with set screw tightened will act as a STOP for the 1.5" travel of the spindle so that you will grind your shaft to the exact length desired.

    Again, I can understand if you bought one of these tools as a cheap method of being able to mill indexed parts on occasion, but it truly was NOT designed for this purpose, which is also why they do not have T-SLOT holding provisions for milling tables. The 5c Spin Indexers are not very rigid and therefore have limited capabilities when it comes to precision milling. These 5C Spin Indexers were meant to be simply be held in place on a surface grinder's magnetic chuck, so bolt-down provisions are not required features of these tools.

    If you own one of these 5C Spin Indexers and plan on modifying it with the threaded lock rings, you might want to re-consider unless you have two of them. One for grinding and one set up for milling. Otherwise, you're just ruining your 5C Grinding Spin Indexer.

    If you are planning on modifying one of these tools for milling, adding slots for bolts to hold it down on a milling table is a good idea, but I would also recommend bolting KEYS on the bottom of the indexer to fit your table T-SLOTS in order to align it properly in the X-direction, parallel to your milling head.

    -Glenn

  2. #852
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223

    Default Spin Index

    Glenn105
    If you pull the shaft out as you describe would you loss the rotational position ? The pin is not very long
    John R

  3. #853
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    4

    Default John R - rotational position?

    Hi, john -

    I'm not sure that I understand your question. The only pin that is used with these Spin Indexers is the LOCK PIN for setting the index at a particular angle. This would be for grinding a flat or other feature on a shaft held by the 5c collet.

    What I was talking about is if you are SPINNING a shaft using the handle at the back of the spindle to fully grind the diameter of the shaft. You would NOT use the lock pin at all when spinning these indexers. It's the LOCK RING at the rear of the spindle that I was saying you can slide back by loosening the set screw. Then re-tighten the set screw when the lock ring is set wherever you need it to be. This will give you however much travel you want on the spindle to be able to grind longer sections of the shaft to a particular diameter.

    -Glenn
    Last edited by glenn105; 03-12-2011 at 12:46 PM.

  4. #854
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223

    Default

    OK Now I understand
    thanks
    John R

  5. #855
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Central Western NSW, Australia
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Tailstock turret for the Myford



    .. with tooling

    Tel

  6. #856
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    301

    Default

    Copied couple of tools already shown, same principle only a little different.

    Copied ehughes for holding small parts to silver braze. One end has screw to move carbon in or out of thin wall brass tube and other end is spring loaded to push against first carbon.






    Copied Wierdscience's band saw circle cutting jig. Mine is for a smaller 16" Walker-Turner saw and not as ridgid support where it clamps on, but on inital test seems it will work good.



    Shown in use the jig is clamped round shaft with flat on one side that holds upper bearing guides,

  7. #857
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    101

    Default drawbar hammer really simple

    After reading Boot's post about z axis height on the mini mill I decided to check mine. Since I'm still unemployed I haven't picked up any holders or endmills and have just been using the mill as a drill press. I knocked loose the chuck with a piece of wood and figured I needed an actual hammer so I looked through the metal I have, thanks to David h, and found a rod of brass and a tube of brass.
    I turned down the rod to fit the tube and used the remainder of the rod for a partial handle. I planned to solder the rod into the tube but the fit was tight enough that I had to drive it in with a 5pd sledge. I tried to solder it but using white flux and plumbing solder had no effect, the solder just balled and slid off the brass. Is there a special flux or solder for brass?
    I took a picture of the drawbar hammer, note the skull crusher end because anything with a skull crusher is just better. No split in the handle just wood grain.



    Jim Doherty

  8. #858
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montezuma, IA
    Posts
    949

    Default

    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    David Kaiser
    Montezuma, IA

  9. #859
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    1,853

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 38_Cal
    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    David,

    I was going to say the workpiece is probably not hot enough.

    Usually if the workpiece is too hot, the filler will boil and roll off.

    Unless a torch is being used, I doubt that too much heat is the problem.

    Brian
    OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

    THINK HARDER

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

  10. #860
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Champaign-Urbana, Illinois
    Posts
    820

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 38_Cal
    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    I was going to say not hot enough as well, especially given the mass of the head. You were probably melting the solder with the flame and it wasn't flowing because the part was too cold.
    Stuart de Haro

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •