Page 86 of 253 FirstFirst ... 3676848586878896136186 ... LastLast
Results 851 to 860 of 2521

Thread: Shop Made Tools

  1. #851
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223

    Default Spin Index

    Glenn105
    If you pull the shaft out as you describe would you loss the rotational position ? The pin is not very long
    John R

  2. #852
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    4

    Default John R - rotational position?

    Hi, john -

    I'm not sure that I understand your question. The only pin that is used with these Spin Indexers is the LOCK PIN for setting the index at a particular angle. This would be for grinding a flat or other feature on a shaft held by the 5c collet.

    What I was talking about is if you are SPINNING a shaft using the handle at the back of the spindle to fully grind the diameter of the shaft. You would NOT use the lock pin at all when spinning these indexers. It's the LOCK RING at the rear of the spindle that I was saying you can slide back by loosening the set screw. Then re-tighten the set screw when the lock ring is set wherever you need it to be. This will give you however much travel you want on the spindle to be able to grind longer sections of the shaft to a particular diameter.

    -Glenn
    Last edited by glenn105; 03-12-2011 at 12:46 PM.

  3. #853
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223

    Default

    OK Now I understand
    thanks
    John R

  4. #854
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Central Western NSW, Australia
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Tailstock turret for the Myford



    .. with tooling

    Tel

  5. #855
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    317

    Default

    Copied couple of tools already shown, same principle only a little different.

    Copied ehughes for holding small parts to silver braze. One end has screw to move carbon in or out of thin wall brass tube and other end is spring loaded to push against first carbon.






    Copied Wierdscience's band saw circle cutting jig. Mine is for a smaller 16" Walker-Turner saw and not as ridgid support where it clamps on, but on inital test seems it will work good.



    Shown in use the jig is clamped round shaft with flat on one side that holds upper bearing guides,

  6. #856
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    101

    Default drawbar hammer really simple

    After reading Boot's post about z axis height on the mini mill I decided to check mine. Since I'm still unemployed I haven't picked up any holders or endmills and have just been using the mill as a drill press. I knocked loose the chuck with a piece of wood and figured I needed an actual hammer so I looked through the metal I have, thanks to David h, and found a rod of brass and a tube of brass.
    I turned down the rod to fit the tube and used the remainder of the rod for a partial handle. I planned to solder the rod into the tube but the fit was tight enough that I had to drive it in with a 5pd sledge. I tried to solder it but using white flux and plumbing solder had no effect, the solder just balled and slid off the brass. Is there a special flux or solder for brass?
    I took a picture of the drawbar hammer, note the skull crusher end because anything with a skull crusher is just better. No split in the handle just wood grain.



    Jim Doherty

  7. #857
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montezuma, IA
    Posts
    1,168

    Default

    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    David Kaiser
    “You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once.”
    ― Robert A. Heinlein

  8. #858
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    2,468

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 38_Cal
    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    David,

    I was going to say the workpiece is probably not hot enough.

    Usually if the workpiece is too hot, the filler will boil and roll off.

    Unless a torch is being used, I doubt that too much heat is the problem.

    Brian
    OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

    THINK HARDER

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

  9. #859
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Champaign-Urbana, Illinois
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 38_Cal
    Jim, 98% of the time when solder balls up rather than flowing, you've got the workpiece too hot. Lead-tin and tin-silver solders generally melt & flow at around 450 to 600 F, depending on the alloy composition. I prefer to use paste flux such as NoKorrode for soft solders.

    David
    I was going to say not hot enough as well, especially given the mass of the head. You were probably melting the solder with the flame and it wasn't flowing because the part was too cold.
    Stuart de Haro

  10. #860
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Gold Country, CA
    Posts
    146

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tel
    Tailstock turret for the Myford



    .. with tooling


    Very nice tailstock turret. Did you use plans from somewhere or create on your own? I would like to make one someday and this certainly is inspiring.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •