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Thread: Shop Made Tools

  1. #2131
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    LA, CA, USA
    Posts
    947

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    It seems that, whenever I get the prick punch located just so, I accidentally nudge it out of position while reaching for the hammer I've inevitably forgotten to lay close to hand.

    So, I made a prick punch that has a built-in hammer.



    The steel slug rides freely on the rod and is dropped, slidehammer-fashion, onto the steel plate pinned to the shaft to drive the prick punch into the work. The punch itself is made from an index hole punch rescued from an old mechanical teletype. The brass screw at the end hides a pocket to store punches and also serves to keep the hammer on the rod.
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware - Tools for People Who Build Things
    http://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

  2. #2132
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    NW Illinois USA
    Posts
    559

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    If you remake the vises in steel you should consider 300 series stainless for lower thermal conductivity compared to carbon steel. Plus they will stay looking nice.

  3. #2133

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    Quote Originally Posted by mklotz View Post
    I built this device some time ago to help me butt-solder two pieces together.



    The two little vises are as identical as I could make them. The bodies and jaws were machined as single pieces and then cut apart to make the two units. The vises slide along a 3/8" square rod and can be locked in any position. The cylindrical post fits my Panavise base. It's removable so the square rod can be clamped in the workbench vise.

    As shown, this little jig has been a remarkably useful tool. Soldering, gluing and sawing are only a few of the things it's been used for. But it really came into its own when I added a second chunk of square rod perpendicular to the original



    using a half-lap joint to ensure that the two vises remained aligned. Accurate orthogonal solder joints are a pleasure now.

    I made the vises from aluminum which, in retrospect, was not the best choice for soldering since it wicks the heat away from the joint. Steel would have been a better choice but my concern was to not mar the part surfaces.

    I've considered adding a third rod perpendicular to the existing two to allow for three dimensional assemblies but haven't gotten around to doing that yet.
    Great idea. I was trying to solder 2 wires together today and a wire jig like this would have been just what I needed.

  4. #2134
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    20

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    Quote Originally Posted by chucketn View Post
    I like the simple indexer. Made from plans or your design?

    Chuck
    I've found your question in searching something else, you can found on this page some ideas for this type of divider make especially for the shaper but which can be use on a milling machine too.
    This divider was made especially for the repair of non standard pinions, before soldering a new part on the broken teeth, I cut on a scrap disk the number of teeth needed using the original as a gauge, and putting this disk in place of the model for the recut of the soldered repair part.

    http://www.lecollectionneur.ch/etau-limeur/
    Last edited by Okapi; 05-07-2015 at 08:30 AM.

  5. #2135
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    The True North
    Posts
    37

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    Here are a set of instrument makers vices I made a wile back .






    Great for holding wee parts wile there being worked on .

    Cheers Rob
    Last edited by RobWilson; 05-07-2015 at 01:10 PM.

  6. #2136
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Ridgefield, Wa
    Posts
    1,009

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    Those are really nice Rob.

  7. #2137
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Kansas City area
    Posts
    5,124

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    Those show a high level of craftsmanship. I would love to have a set like that! Maybe someday in my "spare" time...

  8. #2138
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Louisville Ky
    Posts
    650

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    Very nice. How did you do the handle ends?
    Jim

  9. #2139
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Stevens Point, WI
    Posts
    6,710

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    Excellent work Rob! Thanks very much for sharing!
    Andy

  10. #2140
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    N/W Pa.
    Posts
    385

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    Nice!
    Quote Originally Posted by mklotz View Post
    I made the vises from aluminum which, in retrospect, was not the best choice for soldering since it wicks the heat away from the joint. Steel would have been a better choice but my concern was to not mar the part surfaces.
    You could add phenolic inserts into the jaws to limit heat transmission into the aluminum jaw body. This would allow for the jaws to dissipate any heat that would be radiated to the jaws but prevent the heat from the material being solder from transmitting into the jaws.
    Dan

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