Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: making bullet swaging dies...help!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    16

    Default making bullet swaging dies...help!!

    im a recent lathe owner (chinese lathe/mill type...starter!) i want to make bullet swaging dies. ive been using 12l14 and having good results as far as fit and finish (i have made a set of dies to make bullet jackets from copper tubing).. im trying to ween/get off the tit so to speak from using 12L14 (cant case harden and rh or 7 ive been told) so i purchased some 4140 prehard, im still trying to get used to it as it machines a little tougher lol. my questions are- what kind of rpm should i use with hss tools?- secondly how do u form a shape at the end of a die, ie a bullet nose shape in the die (with the 12L14 i made a scrapper/spoon deal and it worked very well) but it is just bouncing off of the 4140, does someone make a reamer shapped like u want it or maybe a endmill with the shape on the end ??? also just to clarify 4140 prehard is 4140 metal that has been heated to case harden then heated to the annealing temp to make it machinable ? if this is true. can it be case hardened again or just machine it and use as-is ? thanks in advance for any help......bill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    9,031

    Default

    There is a difference between case hardening and through hardening. Low carbon steels such as 12L14 cannot be through hardened, but can be case hardened. Higher carbon steel can be through hardened, 4140 is one of these.

    Case hardening consists of heating the steel in the presence of a carbon donor that creates a thin case of high carbon steel on the surface of the part. Kasenit is a product commonly used for this purpose. You can case harden your swaging dies with this using a hand held torch and water quench. A propane torch might be able to get the die hot enough depending on the size, but a larger torch might be necessary.

    Prehardened 4140 is already heat treated and tempered, no further heat treating is needed once the part is machined.

    A D reamer might serve to profile the bullet nose. It is made from drill rod and turned to the desired profile. Mill to the centerline and harden and draw to a straw color. Stone the edge and give that a try. You could help it by step drilling the nose area to remove most of the material, leaving a minimal amount for the reamer to remove.
    Jim H.

  3. #3

    Default

    Check out Buckshot's posts in the bullet swaging section on " Cast Boolits" site.
    Link:http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    under the olsen twins
    Posts
    125

    Default swaging

    corbins.com has books on this.
    FORD BEATING JAP CRAP SINCE 1941!! CAROLYN JONES(1930-1983 actress)may this lady never be forgotten.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes
    Check out Buckshot's posts in the bullet swaging section on " Cast Boolits" site.
    Link:http://castboolits.gunloads.com/
    thanks delta, yeah i learned of the spoon/scrappers from him lol but he just uses 12L14 as i did but they wont work very well on the 4140 prehard...

    ive also looked at corbins site and saw the books for sale, but i wondered if they would actually go into giving away there secrets of how to make dies! lol i just assumed they were about how to swage only.... ill look again and maybe give him another phone call...thanks

  6. #6

    Default

    You can get the online version of the Corbin book. It is pretty good.

    I am also in the process of trying to make some dies. I am using drill rod. And I am trying to make the 22 rimfire jacket forming dies. Also, I am going to use a reloading press so I made a carrier for the press from a chunk of hot roll and then a threaded insert for the carrier. I haven't finished the insert yet. I'll post some pics later.

    matt

  7. #7

    Default

    Carrier and punch



    Here is all three pieces. The threaded bar on the bottom will be the hardened insert. I still need to cut it to length and bore the hole that the rimfire jacket will be pushed through.


  8. #8

    Default

    Use the same designs as Buckshot's but use carbide. Cobalt may work also.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    16

    Default

    if this works lol, i got my first dies working, but like i said they r 12L14 so they probably wont last long !! from right to left,,cut piece of copper tubing, after round-over die,after draw die,after bottom flattening die, and a loaded bullet... and thanks delta for the carbide idea, but how do u grind or shape that stuff lol it just laughs at my bench grinder rofl...

  10. #10

    Default

    You need a green wheel or diamond wheel. High cobalt you just use standard grinding wheels.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •