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Thread: What did you do today?

  1. #4241
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Loveland,CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    you may have to have them made if it comes to that. Bearing manufactures will advertise they will do custom sizes and matched sets, but when I phoned one (NSK I think it was) the guy literally laughed at the notion of supplying one, there'd be huge minimum orders. If you do come up with a source for high precision needle bearings to specific sizes, that would be good info to have. 15 microns is about 1/2 a thou, I have no info one way or the other be intuitively it seems like a lot of play in a spindle? I do not like this format of needle bearings at the bottom, no way to get a proper preload, at least not 15 micros worth.

    If you have or can borrow a micron dial bore gauge, one revealing test is to check along the outer race, it should be a cylinder, but can end up tapered with wear
    I did a quick search, Universal Bearing and RBC Beading u sell needles only in a large variety of sizes, but only fixed sizes like 1.5 mm 2 mm, etc. Remember, I am NOT a machinist in real life, I just play one in my garage. Can they be be reduced in size, maybe by centerless grinding? Right now I have a toy lathe, 3 by 8, X and Y axis only, and am getting ready to purchase a real one. I have been checking Craigslist for a 300 mile radious, and have.only found expensive worn out stuff, missing most of the accessories such as extra chuck, rests, etc. Grizzley has a Shop Fox model M1099 10" by 26" , for $2350, delivered, only down side is a 1" spindle hole. Anybody have any experience or knowledge about this unit?

  2. #4242

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    Willy, this is what I learned. The small change in shape made all the difference
    "Good judgment comes from experience, and often experience comes from bad judgment" R.M.Brown

    My shop tour www.plastikosmd.com

  3. #4243
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Watford, UK
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    577

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbettprime View Post
    Grizzley has a Shop Fox model M1099 10" by 26" , for $2350, delivered, only down side is a 1" spindle hole. Anybody have any experience or knowledge about this unit?
    Looks like a Chinese lathe to me. Not all bad, don't get me wrong. I have the Sieg SC4 and generally it's pretty good. The carriage travel is not accurate to the dial on all the SC4's but I think that might be this model and could even be an effect of conversion to metric at some point.
    Old-school iron is going to be better but often in poor condition. What you don't get with the Chinese lathes is the hand-fitting you used to get when you were spending more like the cost of a car.... but then, that's why. If you're prepared to adjust things and maybe fettle it a little, it should be quite reasonable.
    Jealous of a gearbox but not sure if like to go to changing belts for speed change. Although you could always change out the motor control I suppose. You'll always want a larger through-spindle hole...just the way it is, it's never quite big enough. You work round it though - unless you're always working on say 1.25" stock, I wouldn't worry too much. Mine only takes about 7/8". Difficult to work out the size on that one too - it LOOKS smaller than mine but weighs twice as much. Good to have the accessories with it but expect them to be of adequate quality rather than top-brand. You can always upgrade or modify what you find you use most.

  4. #4244
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Finland
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    I have been to the scrap yards and some metal working companies nearby and bought off-cuts and looked through the heaps, not pictured is 20-30 kg of stainless 316L I got for 20 euros, really large bolts and off cuts.

    This is 100kg of various steel, 30 euros, the long square bit I hope to make a bunch of QCTP holders from. It's 60x60mm square, I think my holders are 65-70mm wide, but I hope it will work anyway with slightly narrower ones.


    25 kg of various steel, mostly mild steel but I hope the 8.8 grade black oxide ones might be carbon steel, 12 euros:


    There is a lot more and bigger stuff at these places, but I have back issues at the moment and didn't bring a trailer. Just trying to get generalized stuff I think will come in handy.
    Last edited by DennisCA; 07-12-2019 at 04:19 AM.

  5. #4245
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Watford, UK
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    Nice haul there Dennis. Works out about scrap metal rates for the stainless. A long way from what they'll sell it to you by the foot when it's shiny!

    Got the bracket made for my DRO build. Simply slide scale into tube, insert bracket through slot in side of tube and then screw to the bottom of the scale....that you now can't get to. Doh! Back to the drawing board it is then!
    Some of the pieces I made were basically just shims - a rectangle of metal with a slot in. The only critical dimension was the thickness - and then only in that it matched its partner. They'd have done the job....but I just couldn't bring myself to put such shoddy lumps in the build. *I'D* know they were there. So I started again and got as far as milling the two pieces rectangular to unnecessary fussiness. I really must work out a way of making a table with a fence for the bandsaw!

  6. #4246
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Finland
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    I gotta take the chance when I have vacation, otherwise my day job keeps me from making it to these places when they are open.

    Anyway after the spindle reassembly I clamped up the spindle by the inner shaft in the vice and put the indicator on the outer spindle itself, then I pushed and pulled on the spindle in both directions. No real setup of the lock nuts was needed aside from my inital tightening. I got 4 microns or there abouts and that's good enough, the manual says only 1 micron but that's difficult to achieve and I was adviced to aim for no less than 2 microns, but 5 microns should be fine. The thrust bearings need some clearance to live.


    Then I reassembled the vertical head, testing the quill function and it's now smooth as butter compared to before. It's too bad some of these parts are really worn and busted, tried to clean them up best I can.


  7. #4247
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sunny So Cal
    Posts
    4,899

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    [QUOTE=DennisCA;1246943]gotta take the chance when I have vacation, otherwise my day job keeps me from making it to these places when they are open.

    Anyway after the spindle reassembly I clamped up the spindle by the inner shaft in the vice and put the indicator on the outer spindle itself, then I pushed and pulled on the spindle in both directions. No real setup of the lock nuts was needed aside from my inital tightening.

    Some of the nicest work I have seen Dennis. JR
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

  8. #4248
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    10,982

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbettprime View Post
    I did a quick search, Universal Bearing and RBC Beading u sell needles only in a large variety of sizes, but only fixed sizes like 1.5 mm 2 mm, etc. Remember, I am NOT a machinist in real life, I just play one in my garage. Can they be be reduced in size, maybe by centerless grinding?
    They'd need a lapped finish and be a perfect cylinder and matched to an incredibly small tolerance. If another human being can do it, so can you if sufficiently motivated and inclined....but it wouldn't a simple or quick undertaking....and you've still got the underlying problem (which imo is poor design). I thought of it briefly but instead I'm pursuing making a new spindle. Its still a big project, but doable with little mystery and is low risk.
    .

  9. #4249
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    443

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    you may have to have them made if it comes to that. Bearing manufactures will advertise they will do custom sizes and matched sets, but when I phoned one (NSK I think it was) the guy literally laughed at the notion of supplying one, there'd be huge minimum orders. If you do come up with a source for high precision needle bearings to specific sizes, that would be good info to have. 15 microns is about 1/2 a thou, I have no info one way or the other be intuitively it seems like a lot of play in a spindle? I do not like this format of needle bearings at the bottom, no way to get a proper preload, at least not 15 micros worth.

    If you have or can borrow a micron dial bore gauge, one revealing test is to check along the outer race, it should be a cylinder, but can end up tapered with wear
    There should be no preload on Deckel needle bearing spindles. There would be no way to control it even if you did achieve some initially. The assembly is too stiff and thermal expansion would swamp any adjustment. You can get finely graduated sets of needles from Franz Singer in Germany. This subject has been discussed many times on the PM Deckel forum.

  10. #4250
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Finland
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    356

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    I decided to go on ahead with reassembly of the head stock today.



    Also completed reassembly of all the other components to the vertical head and plugged the hole on the side again. I left it unfinished instead of painting it.



    Then I proceeded to work on the horizontal spindle as it needs to be installed before I resinstall the long reach vertical head.



    Was stuck pretty good








    Removing the rear bearings:





    Taking note of the placement of the components and orientation as I lay them out.





    I didn't really photo the rest, I cleaned some more and I greased all the bearings with the same grease and reassembled. Then I set the axial play with the lock nut until it read 6 microns or .0002" I think that's enough, the manual did not say what amount of end play there ought to be.

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