Has anyone worked with CADLOY armor ?

[fishfrnzy]

Looks like this guy had the same problem. This was not you was it. Looks like he's in Florida.

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=14181

All AR ( abrasion resisting ) plate is not the same. Comes in many hardnesses.

AR235
AR321
AR360
AR400
AR450
AR500
AR550
AR600
AR w/5% up to 14% Manganese ( this one will get very hard very fast as the mangenese is high for this exact purpose ie impact resistance)

ThewThe AR550 and 600 are somewhat brittle ( if you beat on them when they are cold they can crack etc.

These are considered somewhat machinable until you get to about 550 BHN.




Armor plates are like the above but may have extra elements added to make them more tough and more shatter resistant. They also have balistic tests done to them. The info says the material is weldable which may help. since we dont know how hard it is except that it is probably about as hard as your cobalt bit, I think the diamond drill suggested above may be your best bet.

[NzOldun]

You could try the old method for drilling glass - a hollow brass tube of the required diamter and fine valve lapping past. Relatively slow speeds and lots of 'pecking' to drill thru - keep adding small amounts of wet paste.

[small.planes]

If you can find one a Stellite drill bit might do the job, IIRC they are designed for drilling hardened steels, in the 50+ RC range.
Not cheap though...

Hope you dont have to tap the holes as well

Dave

[Ian B]

Is this stuf like hardox? If so, here's something on machining it:

http://www.aemach.com/pdf/Machining%...d%20WELDOX.pdf

Looks straightforward - just clamp the vehicle into a (big) radial drill and go at it...

Ian

[A.K. Boomer]

Id skip the drilling, It WILL compromise the integrity - yes highly unlikely that a round hits "the spot" but if its a round that almost gets through the regular stuff then it will have no problem ripping through the center of a drill spot,
plus it sounds like a PITA.

Go to an auto body shop and get some uni-body adhesive from them, after cured this stuff will literally tear metal before it lets go, plenty strong for what your using it for and you can hang from it if you want,,,
Just be sure you mount it where you want it cuz its not coming back off...

[Willy]

Good point AK.
Is this the same adhesive GM uses for instance for mounting their door hinges to the bodies of pickups?
If it is, you're right on about the strength of this stuff, it's as strong as a good weld, and yes the metal will tear before it lets go!

[ckelloug]

How about a call to masterbond inc and using a high strength epoxy. If chosen well, this may be sufficient for the mounting and avoid the holes/tapping completely.

[Willy]

After doing a little look-see, I find that GM does not bond the door hinges to the cab. They are in fact welded and covered with sealer giving them the appearance of being bonded.
I was wrong...who would have guessed?

But after looking at some of the adhesives on the 3M site I'm still very impressed with the techniques and products used!

[jeremy13]

Looks like a job for some well placed explosives to me. You can punch all the holes at the same time. With about 1/10 a second drill time.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/sho...holes+in+steel

[enginuity]

I'd try one of those ceramic tile drills with lots of coolant and pressure