Steadyrest question

[HSS]

How is the steadyrest best centered when needed. I've got front to back alignment covered, but, what is the best way to align "up and down"? I've been wondering about this for a while, just didn't know the best way to ask it. TIA

Patrick

[Toolguy]

I just put the part in the chuck, slide the steady up by the chuck and move the supports to touch the part. Loosen the chuck, open the top of the steady and slide it down the bed. You can also put the part on the center in the tailstock and move the supports to touch, then remove the tailstock.

[Richard Wilson]

How is the steadyrest best centered when needed. I've got front to back alignment covered, but, what is the best way to align "up and down"? I've been wondering about this for a while, just didn't know the best way to ask it. TIAPatrick

Assuming you are dealing with bar stock of a constant diameter, I've got 2 methods:- The quick and dirty one is to put the stock in the chuck, push the steady up to the chuck, clamp it down and set the steady to the bar. Then unclamp the steady, slide it down the bed to the desired postion and reclamp.
The other 'proper' method is to use a DTI. With the normal 3 point steady, which has 1 finger on the top, I set up/down first, then front/back, that way the front/back adjustments don't upset up/down. I use a magnetic base on the topslide, with the 'clock' on an extension reaching over the top of the steady. Of course using method 1 its all set in one go.
If you've got front/back covered (how?) why don't you use the same method for up/down?

Richard

[HSS]

Richard, it seems you could clock the up and down to get the stock centered but what's to say that you are in the same plane as the stock in the headstock? That was really the question I was refering to in the op.

Patrick

[winchman]

If the part has a different diameter at the chuck than where the steady will support it, I turn a piece of scrap to that diameter, and use it to set the steady.

You need to keep in mind that any error in the chuck will be carried over to the steady, and consider how that will affect the outcome. A terrible chuck error could result in part with noticeable taper, with the chuck end smaller than the end in the steady.

[HSS]

Thanks winchman, that is good info. I guess my question should have been; does it really matter if your stock is high or low at the steady rest, if you're only removing stock from the side of the axis anyway?

Patrick

[Oldbrock]

Yes it matters, if the steady isn't lined up the work will walk out of the chuck. Ask me how I know. Peter

[winchman]

If the steady is off front to back, the part will be tapered. Having the steady off up or down doesn't have much effect on taper.

If you want the best consistency when turning something long, use the steady to turn centers on the ends (the steady doesn't have to be perfectly adjusted to do this), then turn the work between centers.

brockley1 is correct, but I've never encountered that. I suspect it takes a fair amount of error or a long time turning for that to happen.

[jugs]

If the steady is off front to back, the part will be tapered. Having the steady off up or down doesn't have much effect on taper.

If you want the best consistency when turning something long, use the steady to turn centers on the ends (the steady doesn't have to be perfectly adjusted to do this), then turn the work between centers.

brockley1 is correct, but I've never encountered that. I suspect it takes a fair amount of error or a long time turning for that to happen.

& also use a traveling steady to prevent any whip or deflection.

john

[JoeLee]

& also use a traveling steady to prevent any whip or deflection.

john

I believe that is called a follower rest, which can also be used in conjunction with the steady rest to avoid deflection at the cutting tool.

When I set up my steady rest I usually indicate it in.

OK............ now it's bearings or glides on the steady??
My choice is glides unless the steady is mounted far enough away from flying chips.

JL.....................