Deburring drill shanks, is there a right way?

[airrj]

The toolroom that I am working in has 100's of drill bits and there are many, if not most, of them that have burred up shanks. They are still useable as is for work in the shop or field, but it would be nice to clean up some of the worst ones. Also, it makes it harder to chuck them up in the Darex sharpener.

Can anyone suggest an effective way to deburr them without going overboard? I have seen them cleaned up on a belt sander before, but it is very easy to get carried away with that.

Thanks for the help.
R.J.

[Mcgyver]

I use a fine(ish) file. Try to just hit the burr and with the last few strokes follow the curve of the drill shank. I think any sort of mechanical device runs the high risk of removing more than you want to

[Carld]

I chuck the drill part in the lathe and use a fine file to file off the high spots being careful to NOT cut the real taper. It takes some practice to do it right but it works just fine. Try to find a dull file to do this.

[Black_Moons]

I just do it by hand with a normal file, or diamond coated file.. Normal file works because the shanks are typicaly not hardened, thats why they burr up in the first place.. (its that, or your chuck)

The only problem with removing the burrs, is then they slip in the drill chuck again untill a nice burr is raised
(The burr kinda helps keep the drill from sliping)

[gwilson]

Filing off by hand is the best way to avoid damaging the shank. I NEVER use diamonds,though,where any loose ones can get into a hole,or other machine component. Once they get in there,there in for good. Soft shanks don't need diamond files.

[Paul Alciatore]

I find that the burrs are usually in one place and leave a groove partially around the shank with a built up knob at it's end. I have used files and even grinding wheels in the past, but presently I prefer to use a small stone (1/4" diameter) in the Dremel. I hold the drill at a right angle to the Dremel axis and try to hit the built up knob only. You can take it out to below the shank's OD but the remaining, untouched area above and below this small notch will allow chucking it properly. I use a strip of fine (150-220 grit) sandpaper like a shoe polishing rag to remove any remaining roughness. Most drill chucks are not that accurate, but if you are anal about it, you can rotate the drill and sand it in that manner from three or four equally spaced directions to take the same amount off all sides. Hold it with aluminum or wood jaws in the shop vise for this sanding.

This goes very quickly and the worst part is taking the Dremel out and putting it away. Save up several damaged drills to do at once and the process is much more efficient.

[MuellerNick]

I just grind off the "knob" on the edge of a grinding wheel. I don't make the slightest attempt to get it flush, in fact I grind it deeper.
By chance, I later saw exactly that procedure done by a professional tool grinder.


Nick

[dockrat]

pretty much the same as Nick here

[miker]

[The only problem with removing the burrs, is then they slip in the drill chuck again untill a nice burr is raised
(The burr kinda helps keep the drill from sliping)[/QUOTE]

Maybe the shaft should be Knurled to begin with!!

Rgds

[metalmagpie]

I just kiss it on the belt sander. Bye bye burr-y.