22 cal barrel liner

[hwingo]

A recent post regarding a thin barrel 38 cal has caused me to reflect on several completed projects that were accomplished by an acquaintance near my use-to-be-home in eastern Kentucky.

I was never into "re-lining" barrels for 22 cal rim-fire but subconsciously I've always wanted to know more about methods used. Though the lathe he used was quite small, the culmination of his projects were quite remarkable. This said, he wouldn't reveal his techniques. He did state that the used barrel was drilled over-sized and the barrel liner was soldered to place.

When the project was completed, he hot-blued the barrel. It was practically impossible to see a line between the original barrel and the barrel liner at the crown. Additionally, there was NEVER a solder line visible.

1. How is a barrel drilled the entire length? The lathe was too small to chuck a long drill in the tail stock.

2. How is solder applied? Is solder only applied at the ends of the barrel once the liner is in position?

3. What kind of solder is used to withstand hot blue?

4. When the barrel was crowned, and before bluing, the liner could not be detected at the crown. The appearance was that of being a single piece of metal. After the barrel was blued, there was no solder line. How can that be accomplished where no line is detectable?

Harold

[JCHannum]

The best place to start is with Brownell's very good instructions for barrel liner installation. This link is to a pdf of their instructions for installing liners.

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/le...el%20Liner.pdf

They give instructions both for solder and Acraglass. Both methods are good and proven. Solder is not often used any more mainly because there are other systems that work as well or better and are much simpler to use. I use JB Weld, as it is more economical than Acra Glass, any good epoxy will work. Others drill and then ream the old barrel for a good fit of the liner and use Loc Tite for bonding.

Handling a long drill bit in a short lathe does present problems, but is not impossible. With a piloted drill, barrels have been drilled with a hand drill, drilling from each end to reduce the length required. A drill can be held in the toolpost rather than the tailstock. Picture a boring tool holder that the drill is fed through and clamped in stages as the hole deepens.

To hide the liner, some will drill from the breech until the pilot just emerges, leaving a very slight counterbore at the muzzle, hiding the joint in the crown.

Hot bluing can effect lead solders, but I suspect the small amount exposed in a well fit liner is not affected. If the crown is finished after bluing, the joint can be made pretty much invisible. Epoxy and Loc Tite will not be affected.

[hwingo]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your reply. The PDF is quite informative as well as your comments. I have quickly scanned the PDF and will give it a closer inspection when I return from work.

Thanks again for your response.

Harold

[RWO]

Elimination of the joint at the muzzle is not that hard. I relined one Mod 62 Win. with a very close fitting liner using Loctite 609 and when I crowned the muzzle, the joint diappeared. Apparently the burs on the barrel ID and the liner OD at the crown combined in a way that the gap ( only about .00075") was filled perfectly.

Subsequent bluing didn't change the appearance and the barrel modification was undetectable when the gun was assembled.

Loctite is a superior way to bond the liner. I normally use 609, buy any low viscosity grade will work. My liner drill is a nominal .0015" larger than the typical Redman liner. That clearance is too small for epoxy to be effectively applied without leaving lots of voids. The low viscosity Loctite fills all the air space and provides a solid bond with no hassle. I would never consider solder since the necessity of keeping the entire barrel hot as you attempt to push the liner in seems to be asking for trouble unless you have a custom made jig with multiple heat sources, etc. I don't do enough relining to ever warrant that kind of expense.

RWO

[38_Cal]

Regarding hot bluing and soft solder, many moons ago when I was in gunsmithing school, one of my instructors made the statement that the hot caustic salts eat about .001" of solder per minute of immersion. If you've got a good, tight fit at the muzzle and breech there would be no problem in refinishing a soft soldered lined barrel. Personally, I've used epoxy when relining for many years, even on low pressure centerfire barrels, and see no reason to change.

David

[Rusty Marlin]

I've relined a bunch of .22's.

I use Permatex Bearing and Sleave retainer. Good for filling up to .015" gaps at a service temp of 450F.

They make a slightly less viscous version but Napa doesn't carry it.