Stamping brass caps
I'd like to stamp out some pipe caps from .030 cartridge brass. The caps will be used as cylinder head covers for a steam engine. I've made a stamping assembly that fits in the press. I need to anneal the sheet before I do the actual pressing correct? Wasn't really too sure on this since I've never actually tried it.
Heat to red hot and allow to cool or quench in water. Depending on how deep the draw is, you might need to anneal more than once.
Yeah, that's why I posted. Once in it's in the jig, there is no going back for a 2nd annealingl. It's pushed through in one motion. The brass is forced through an aluminum plate that takes into account the thickness of the sheet.
Rough and ready; dim the lights, heat to dull red, slow air cool, not too slow as the graind get so big that it renders the brass weak and brittle, sudden quench hardens it.
Cold working then hardens it again, you may need a lubricant when deep drawing, from memory it used to be Aquadag, colloidial suspension of graphite [with a bit of acidity to keep it from clumping up] in water, it used to be available in areosol cans but that was 30 years ago! [i cant remember what happened yesterday!]
Draw Die Lube
Mix some Lanolin with Alcohol, or use commercial case lube for resizing brass cartridges. The aluminum die may not last very long, don't know how many you're wanting to make.
Don't forget, annealing works best if the primers are removed first.
Brass is not hardened in a quench. The common way to anneal brass cartridge cases is to stand them up to their neck in a pan of water, heat the neck to low red and tip them over into the pan.
Originally Posted by boslab
I like to quench brass because it helps blow any oxide off before I put it into the pickle. Saves work.