quick release quill nut

[plunger]

I got tired of having to spin the nut for the depth stop on my milling machine so I stole this idea from my mate Werner. Now its real quick to adjust the depth stop. I soppose this could be more refined by making a fine adjustment nut to fit on the sliding stop. I am thinking of putting a nut to fit this with a 1mm pitch

[noah katz]

Nice.

I soppose this could be more refined by making a fine adjustment nut to fit on the sliding stop.

Or you could use the knee, which already has a graduated dial.

[Alistair Hosie]

Which is as I understand the right way to go.It's not a mill drill is it? Alistair

[SGW]

Now *that* makes a lot of sense! Thanks for the inspiration.

[John Stevenson]

Nice.



Or you could use the knee, which already has a graduated dial.

What happens when you have the head angled ?
Something that has always puzzled me on the Bridgy, it's supposedly a toolroom machine but nothing other than a 5" rule on the head ?

Graduated dials on X and Y but the quill is ignored.
Yes I know you can mount the work at the correct angle and move the knee and if this is the case why not fix the head solid so you don't have to retram it every 23 minutes.

[jdunmyer]

John Stevenson wrote:

Yes I know you can mount the work at the correct angle and move the knee and if this is the case why not fix the head solid so you don't have to retram it every 23 minutes.

John,
If you'd quit abusing your poor B'Port, it'd easily go an hour, maybe 2 before needing to be retrammed. Mine does.

[John Stevenson]

John,
If you'd quit abusing your poor B'Port, it'd easily go an hour, maybe 2 before needing to be retrammed. Mine does.

It's not abuse it's using it to the design limits

Speaking of which I'm doing a pump stub shaft at the moment, started off today with a solid piece of steel 10" diameter and 12" long, 6 hours later I have this top hat shape and a skip full of turnings.

On the big top hat it needs 12 holes 7/8" clearance with 6 of them counterbored to 1 1/2"
Just fits on the Bridgy standing up now I have turned a 23mm drill down from MT2 to 16mm and chopped 5" off the end

Then got to mill two 7/8" keyways in at 90 degrees to one another.

The things I do to earn £5.76p

[plunger]

Its not a bridgy Its an mitco iso 40. Proudly made in s africa. Or at least was made in s africa .This was made in the late 70s early 80s during the apartheid era when s africa was isolated because of sanctions. I hope I never need spares. Its based on the holke design which I think is spanish.
If I am drilling a lot of 4mm holes I would not like to have to use the knee if I could help it.

[rmuell01]

The things I do to earn £5.76p

John's buying

[mike4]

It's not abuse it's using it to the design limits

Speaking of which I'm doing a pump stub shaft at the moment, started off today with a solid piece of steel 10" diameter and 12" long, 6 hours later I have this top hat shape and a skip full of turnings.

On the big top hat it needs 12 holes 7/8" clearance with 6 of them counterbored to 1 1/2"
Just fits on the Bridgy standing up now I have turned a 23mm drill down from MT2 to 16mm and chopped 5" off the end

Then got to mill two 7/8" keyways in at 90 degrees to one another.

The things I do to earn £5.76p

Most mills dont seem to have a lot of clearance when it comes to jobs like that ,thats why I have started to fabricate a riser for mine ,as well as a horizontal spacer to save removing the riser is I want to use the horizontal .

Hope to find a decent mill for sale soon rather than having to modify mine to do work which fits under the head if you dont need to use any chucks to hold cutters.

Michael