I don't give a tram

[Hexhead]

I've resisted posting this because it's embarrassing. I have real trouble tramming my Grizzly 4 inch vise (without the swivel base) but it doesn't matter which vise. I'm using s "last word" gauge to tram it off the spindle.

I tighten everything tighter than a horses as* in fly season. I put a parallel in the jaws for a flat surface. I go one way then the other split the difference some times it's close most of the time it's not.

I snug up one bolt and move the other side but I just keep going around and around. One time I thought I had it quick only to find out the gauge wasn't making contact with the vise. Is this the only way to do it? I've watch Tubal Cain do in a min or less.

It would bother me so much but I'm always having the switch out things on my HF mini Mill.

Thanks

[mnrjohnson]

If the vise dose't have a rotary base and you are adjusting with the hold down bolts splitting the difference wont work. spiting the difference will only work if the point of pivot is centered between the points of the reading. At least that is the problem i have found when trying to keep the graduations on zero and adjust the whole vise on its mouning bolts.

Ryan

[Toolguy]

Last Word (Mother in Law) indicators are kind of finicky to use and don't have a lot of range. I would suggest getting a Fowler X Test dial test indicator. Those have a range of .060 so you can stay in contact with the vise at all times. What I do is tighten down one side firmly and one side lightly. Get zeroed on the firm side, then go to the light side and zero it. Then tighten that side and loosen the other side and re zero it. Going back and forth a few times should get you on target. The part the indicator is touching needs to be flat. If it's wavy you can't tell what's going on.

[TGTool]

I'll second Toolguy's suggestion of tightening one side reasonably snug and then moving the other. If both sides are loose there are just too many ways the thing can squirm. Is it pivoting around some point? Is that point near the middle or not? Is it sliding so both sides are moving across the table? With one side snug(er) you're more nearly assured about the kind of movement. Since the pivot is way off the end, you'll need to move more than the amount indicated. That is, supposing the right end is .010" too close to you. You tap it back .010", but since the pivot is further left than the left end of the vise jaw, the left end might move .002" as the right moves .010" so you have to compensate for that.

I do deviate from Toolguy in not switching sides and loosening the snug side since it can move inadvertently. Maybe it's just a matter of style or preference or superstition.

[gr8life]

Not sure what your vice looks like on the bottom but if it has a hole, I will assume it does because you say you have a rotary base, make a new pivot for the vice to rotate about an axis.
thanks
ed

[TGTool]

Not sure what your vice looks like on the bottom but if it has a hole, I will assume it does because you say you have a rotary base, make a new pivot for the vice to rotate about an axis.
thanks
ed

Yeah! That's a great idea.

Your vise shows keyways in the bottom and I know some key their vises to the table but I haven't been confident enough of my table slots to trust that. Maybe I should just try and see. In the meantime, your pin is the way to go.

[Rex]

Those keyways just get you close, unless you have made your own to a tighter spec.

One thing is make sure your X gibs are snug, or you will be adding the slack as the table moves.

[Hexhead]

Thanks for restoring my hope that I'm not completely over the hill. There seems to be a lot more to this than what I first imagined. I've been tramming stuff for some time, but always with frustration.

Finally broke down and asked for help and sure glade I did. My vice looks like the one pictured (hole in bottom) without the rotary base. I made the brass button (also shown) and things got better.

One thing I'd like cleared up though. When you say tighten one bolt, how do you move the vise, by tapping with a hammer, pry bar or what?

I'm going to take the advice of the fowler X indicator, you right the last word is just too finicky.

When I posted this I though I'd get maybe some looks but no advice, I'll work on my pessimistum

Thanks again to all for taking the time to help me with this. Kiss your wive, Hug you kids and God bless.

[Toolguy]

I use an orange plastic deadblow hammer. i tap the vise on the end with the handle, on one side or the other. That scoots it a little bit sideways. They come in orange and dark green, almost black. I only buy orange now because I kept losing the black ones. They come in several sizes, but I find the smallest and medium ones most useful. Do not leave the indicator in contact with the vise when adjusting it. The shock of hitting the vise will transfer to the delicate internal parts of the indicator and ruin it. It's easy to just raise the quill a bit so the indicator contact is a little above the jaw, then lower it to get a reading.

[gr8life]

Hexhead, I forgot to mention there is a socket set screw in the center of the brass piece, the tapping you will get the hang of and as was said tighten the gibs & the Z axis, either lock the spindle or put it in back gear. Good luck and post the results of your efforts so members can see and learn.
thanks
ed