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Thread: Fabricating an impossible to find oil tank for a motorcycle

  1. #131
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    Thanks for the primer on balancing the HD V-twin Jim, much appreciated.
    Thanks also for taking the time to document everything along the way as well as you have. I realize this all takes time and it can be a distraction at times, however it is appreciated.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  2. #132
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    Hi jhe.1973,

    Just wish to add my thanks for taking what must have been quite some time, to post this thread.

    I've spent a very enjoyable evening reading all the postings, it's been very interesting and uplifting to me, during the crap time I'm currently experiencing.

    Thank you.
    Chris....

  3. #133
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    Thanks guys for the compliments AND for recognizing the time required. Got to be at 2:00 AM that night!

    Also, thanks to all of you that are following this thread. Just seeing the number of hits it is getting shows me that my efforts are not in vain.

    Best wishes to ya’ll.

    Sincerely,

    Jim

    "To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk" - Thomas Edison

    "I've always wanted to get a job as a procrastinator but I keep putting off going out to find one so I guess I'll never realize my life's dream. Frustrating!" - Me

  4. #134
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    supercool! So the starter weight is based on the formula you use that incorporates the big end/ little end/ piston weights. What do you do after that if an imbalance is found. Do you add more weight to the starter weight or do you remove weight from the plate/ web? Or can you add it elsewhere to correct the imbalance?

  5. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    supercool! So the starter weight is based on the formula you use that incorporates the big end/ little end/ piston weights. What do you do after that if an imbalance is found. Do you add more weight to the starter weight or do you remove weight from the plate/ web? Or can you add it elsewhere to correct the imbalance?
    I think I should have elaborated a bit in post #129 when I mentioned starting weight. What I showed was just a weight to get in the ball park. I will have to add washers and nuts to the threaded rods sticking out each end once I have the final weight calculated. With one piece crankshafts this weight is called a bob weight once it is applied to the final balancing.

    To make this easiest to understand, here are two pages from my balancing records from a 5 year span in the 70s:



    Using the H-D racing bulletin available at the time as a guide, I typed these sheets and had them printed. The customer received the original and these are the carbon copies.

    Geesh, typewriters and carbon copies..................... boy, talk about dating myself!

    Most of my balancing experience had been modifying production engines which use heavier cast flywheels. In the first photo of post #130 there are three holes drilled opposite the bob weight from prior balancing. Typically these have to be deepened or enlarged with even more holes possibly being needed. Because these flywheels are the lighter forged racing style, they may not require as much work.

    If it turns out that these wheels are already too light in the area with the holes it is permissible to drill holes on the opposite side of the wheel, but NEVER above the crankpin towards the rim.

    As a bit of trivia, I picked the page above because my notes on the left page are for the experimental engine I mentioned in post #124.

    The top two sections are what each flywheel of this particular engine had from the factory. The lower section is the 61% factor H-D wanted plus the other ones possible by removing certain socket head pipe plugs. I had to machine access holes to remove the plugs from the outside of the engine.

    I am aware of competition automotive crankshafts having to have cavities machined into the counterweights that are then being capped leaving only a hole to pour lead into. I don't know if this is still done these days, but I mention it to show what race engine builders have had to do to increase the effective counterweight.
    Best wishes to ya’ll.

    Sincerely,

    Jim

    "To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk" - Thomas Edison

    "I've always wanted to get a job as a procrastinator but I keep putting off going out to find one so I guess I'll never realize my life's dream. Frustrating!" - Me

  6. #136
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    Again thanks for the insight.
    Yeah I didn't even think twice when you mentioned typewriters and carbon copies, old farts I guess. LOL

    I am aware of competition automotive crankshafts having to have cavities machined into the counterweights that are then being capped leaving only a hole to pour lead into. I don't know if this is still done these days, but I mention it to show what race engine builders have had to do to increase the effective counterweight.
    I see Goodson still lists "Mallory Metal" in their catalog, been in use as long as I can remember.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  7. #137
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    san jose, ca. usa
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    yes. thanks.

  8. #138
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    Hi Everyone,

    Back in the day I made my own degree wheel which I no longer have. One of my friends had a beautiful Triumph and we were always teasing each other about our rides..........................Soooooo:



    To be able to see the oil pump drive I cut openings in the wheel as shown. I was going to do the same thing to a wheel I found online and started to set it up in my rotary table, first lining up the Y axis:



    Then tramming the outside of the lines:



    Then I got a brilliant but warped idea (I had a friend that used to say that):

    I mounted the wheel to a Plexiglas plate with 10-32 button head screws and cut the entire center out:



    Using a sharp nosed tool and only going .005 thou deep at a time I moved the cross slide in and out a bit with each cut. I never let the chips pile up any more than what is shown to keep from scratching the face. Also the chips can cause something to grab when you get to this stopping point:



    For those of you who haven't done things like this before, you can hear the sound change when the tool is starting to breakthrough.

    By turning the lathe by hand for the last few revolutions the center fell out without flying across the room if the machine had been running.

    Final boring of the center hole and it is done:

    Best wishes to ya’ll.

    Sincerely,

    Jim

    "To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk" - Thomas Edison

    "I've always wanted to get a job as a procrastinator but I keep putting off going out to find one so I guess I'll never realize my life's dream. Frustrating!" - Me

  9. #139
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    NE Thailand
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    Outstanding work again Jim!

  10. #140
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    Thanks thaiguzzi,

    To everyone viewing this;

    In different threads I have started, and maybe this one, people have requested seeing my set-ups. Honoring that is why I try to show and mention details that may be of help if others try similar things in their shops.

    Soooo, its your interest that keeps me going and I appreciate that!

    Thank you all.

    Best wishes to ya’ll.

    Sincerely,

    Jim

    "To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk" - Thomas Edison

    "I've always wanted to get a job as a procrastinator but I keep putting off going out to find one so I guess I'll never realize my life's dream. Frustrating!" - Me

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