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Thread: repairing a farmall cast iron belt pulley

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    northwest wisconsin
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    Default repairing a farmall cast iron belt pulley

    i have a 8" by about 6 in wide flat belt pulley on my tractor that has a small chunk broken out of the outside diameter thats shaped like a quarter moon, about 3" by about 2". it is also cracked in both directions for about 4 inches around the diameter. without a picture to explain it, i need to repair the dang thing so i can use it with a buzz saw. its cast iron.

    there are a few options available, after i drill a hole at the end of each crack should i :

    braze the crack with oxy/act, pre-heat and slow cool

    weld the crack with nickel rod, pre-heating, peening, post heating and slow cool

    weld the crack with mang. bronze and the tig, again heat and cool

    and then form a small chunk of mild steel to replace the missing part.

    im not a "welder" but can do any of the above with confidence.

    it is abouit 1/4" thick around the diameter and the speed will be maxed out at 550 rpm when in use.

    help !

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    SW Michigan
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    Default

    They seem to be parting a lot of older tractors would it worth it to just replace it with a good used one?
    *Plan for the Future but Live each Day as if it were your Last, for one day it will be* Live Life Bold, Strong, Fearless, Happy, Thankful & at Peace.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    197

    Default

    If you weld it, my suggestion would be to O/A weld it and use cast iron filler rod. (as opposed to brazing)

    I have done something similar, in my case is was a spoked cast iron helical cut gear, one of the spokes was broken and was missing a piece which made about a 3/16" gap in the spoke.

    I welded the spoke back in at the good end, and fill welded the gap closed, all with cast iron filler rod. Then had to machine the mounting in the center, as I had to weld a mounting hole closed to do a proper repair.

    Preheating and slow cooling resulted in no deformity, the gear was still true after completion.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    690

    Default

    get a pice of pipe bore it to be a press fit. heat it up and slip in on. let cool and you are good to go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    201

    Default

    The pipe suggestion , while in theory , would work , is a poor suggestion , as the "flat belt pully" isn't truly flat, it has a slight crown to help with belt tracking. Any of the methods you mentioned should work, but my preferances would be Oxy/Acet brase /weld repair, then Tig W/ Bronze , lastly stickW nickel....Shawn

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Central Ohio
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    Which tractor is this on? I thought all the Farmall pulleys after 1939 (Models A, H, & M) were laminated, and not cast? Unless this is from the early numbered series (F-12/F-20 etc)
    Last edited by Ohio Mike; 10-16-2011 at 09:15 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    northwest wisconsin
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    this one is a "C". about a 1949 year. . .

    on the cast iron rod welding, i think i have a few sticks andwill try it. my neighbor is a well driller and i;d bet he has proper pipe. and the crown could be machined in after pressing it on after turning the old pulley to a straight round. . . . thanks for the input. tomorrow is the day to try the oxy/act weld. im anxious to try it. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Ohio Mike
    Which tractor is this on? I thought all the Farmall pulleys after 1939 (Models A, H, & M) were laminated, and not cast? Unless this is from the early numbered series (F-12/F-20 etc)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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    1,603

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flylo
    They seem to be parting a lot of older tractors would it worth it to just replace it with a good used one?

    X 2. There's several listed on Ebay.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    21

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    David,repairing pulleys and sheves especially anything with spokes is very tricky.I'd drill the end of the cracks wrap with tape for safety and keep your eyes peeled for a replacement.Old John Deere tractors seem to always have a little chunk out of the belt pulley from the wrench when adjusting the clutch. Frank C.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    3,815

    Default

    Super glue. Or JB weld, whatever you preferr.

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