Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Hammer spring material

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    381

    Default Hammer spring material

    My brother picked up an old flintlock rifle. The striker plate spring is broken. It must have been formed and then hardened. Could anyone tell me what type of steel would be used to replicate this spring. It is the spring that has a single mounting screw, goes out about 1.75 and then double back on itself.
    gbritnell

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    8,743

    Default

    Generally, any of the low to medium carbon steels will work. 1075, 1095 or 1070. Rough grind and file to shape, heat and bend and then polish it bright, polishing in the long dimension.

    Heat and quench in oil and polish again and then draw back. I draw back on the kitchen gas range in a pan of brass filings. Heat to ~650*F and allow to slow cool. It might take a couple of tries to get it right, but it usually works eventually.
    Jim H.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Montezuma, IA
    Posts
    928

    Default

    What Jim says. I prefer 1095 spring stock, but have used 1070 with success also. Practice on a piece of scrap bent to a V shape. 625-650 F will be a "peacock blue" color in natural light.

    David
    David Kaiser
    Montezuma, IA

  4. #4

    Default

    A piece of old leaf spring would work. Forge file or grind it (or all of them) to the shape you need and harden in warm vegetable oil. The Brownells catalog give a good procedure on making a spring. It goes something like this, wrap with soft iron wire and harden in oil, place everything in a can and wet with oil. Ignite the oil and let it all burn off. As it says in the catalog, you either have a spring or you don't.

    The thing you are calling a striker plate is called a frizzen.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    3,613

    Default

    It might take a couple of tries to get it right, but it usually works eventually.



    That needs to sewn on a sampler.

    Sorry.
    As you were.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    629

    Default

    Low carbon steel 0.05% - 0.25% carbon

    mild steel 0.16% - 0.29% carbon

    High carbon steel 0.3% - 1.3% carbon


    1095 -->> 0.95% carbon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    382

    Default

    You might find a replacement frizzen spring here: http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default...67_588_241_247

    They also sell spring material:
    http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default...67_588_241_242

    RWO

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Staffs, UK
    Posts
    170

    Default

    I will guarantee that Brownells method not to work.

    No need to grind you'll be there all week, just need a saw and files, made loads for the best in the trade worldwide.

    Leaf springs going to be your best bet, just anneal it and it will then be good to work with.
    Make it in the flat state then turn it leaving lengths longer. If you cut it out like wire cut springs they dont look right and most importantly dont have the strength.

  9. #9

    Default

    I have used the Brownells method many times with success every time. I have even gas welded broken springs together and followed those directions with success. When I weld springs, I use an old coil spring for filler wire.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    243

    Default

    I have used brownells method as described and it works just fine, in fact I have a gunsmithing book from the 1880's that describes the same method but uses sperm oil. No whales in AZ anymore so I use mineral oil.

    I have some annealled spring stock if you need a piece. let me know the width and lenght and I will put a piece in the mail. Have made many springs from this stock.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •