decent quality drill chucks

[lost_cause]

i've got two drill chucks that are both budget import quality - one on an r8 spindle for the mill and one on an mt2 for the lathe tailstock. i have no issues with concentricity on either one (i'm a hobbyist hack, and i haven't got the need for high precision - or high cost - at the current time). my problem is that i've tried chucking up new, good cutting taps in both and i've not been able to tap under power - the tap spins freely in the drill chuck almost instantly. the taps will cut fast and easy by hand, and make good spiraling chips, so i'm not having any issue with them.

i'm wondering if a better quality chuck will be likely to have a better grip on things like taps and drills. i haven't had a huge issue with drill bits slipping in the chuck, though it does happen on occasion. i've looked on ebay and jacobs 14n ball bearing super chucks seem to go for $50-$60 in an auction. is something like this the way to go? i've also noticed that enco sells rohm german made chucks new for $35 or so. does anyone have anything to say about the quality of them? also, if anyone has experience with any others that are of a similar price, i'd be happy to know. as i said, i'm at the hobbyist level, and if it costs much more than a used 14n then it's probably not worth it for me at the current time.

[rancherbill]

I bought a Rohm (ball bearing version) and have never had a drill bit slip. My old chuck would slip every once in a while no matter how hard I tightened it. I love the Rohm.

[Bruce Griffing]

In my shop I have started to use ER collets for almost everything that I used a chuck for in the past. Especially if you are planning to power tap, investing in ER collet chucks would be a good idea. The nice thing about the ER system is that a full set of collets will cover any size shank (within the range, of course). Buy top of the line if you like, but the import stuff from CTC tools is pretty good. You could also try Shars. I use a lot of ER20's. That size will range up to a 1/2" shank.

[j.bain87]

Ahh, a Rohm chuck, now your talking quality,--------------------------------------------------------------------- about twice as good as a bit of tired old yankee crud.

[T.Hoffman]

I've been very happy with a new Albrecht keyless chuck I recently got.
First time I ever played with one.
I like this far better than my Jacobs.

[Bob Fisher]

Ditto for Rohm. I replaced the chuck on my import 16 speed drill press and have never had a drill bit slip. It's expecting a lot from a drill chuck to tap under power though,I should think a collet would be a better choice. Wish I could say that I've never done it though. Sometimes the laziness sneaks in and you just want to get it done. Bob

[adatesman]

In my shop I have started to use ER collets for almost everything that I used a chuck for in the past. Especially if you are planning to power tap, investing in ER collet chucks would be a good idea. The nice thing about the ER system is that a full set of collets will cover any size shank (within the range, of course). Buy top of the line if you like, but the import stuff from CTC tools is pretty good. You could also try Shars. I use a lot of ER20's. That size will range up to a 1/2" shank.

Maritool is another good option for ER stuff. IIRC not much more than cost-wise than the imports and made in either the US or Germany (depends on the item in question). Oh, and the quality is top notch.

[PixMan]

I don't get it with the ER collets for drill chuck work. I can understand if it's on a CNC machine and there's going to be a lot of holes at high production rates, but for onesy-twoseys in a home shop, it's overkill to me. It takes too long to find the correct collet, snap it into the nut, load the tool into the collet & nut and snug the whole thing up with a wrench.

Compared to a friction drill chuck such as Albrecht or Rohm, or a good Jacobs with key, it's less runout and more grip but with far more time.

As for the tapping problem, I have an old Jacobs on an R8 shank and have no problem even with taps over 1/2". Do you have a hand tap or a good machine tap? I use spiral point taps for most applications.

Here's a demonstration if you can bear to watch some dope fiddle with a change-belt J-head Bridgeport and a poor countersink tool.

http://youtu.be/iwRjeE6om6I
http://youtu.be/AMuq_f25w1g

[morehelium]

I've seen similar issues with cheap chucks trying to hold taps. I have 5 or 6 Jacobs ball bearing chucks and love them for tapping. No issues with taps up to 1/2".

Keyless chucks are useless for tapping, but I'm not fond of keyless chucks in general. I have 4 nearly new Albrecht chucks sitting in a cabinet, all replaced with Jacobs super chucks.

The Ball thrust bearing makes all the difference in the world for holding taps.
You can get much more holding power than a identical Jacobs plain chuck.
I bought a new Jacobs 1/2" plain chuck but it still doesn't compare to any of my used ball bearing ones.

I find that I can control how tight they grip so for smaller taps they will slip at a certain point and not break. Useful for tapping stainless anyway.

I'd highly recommend finding a good used Jacobs super chuck on Ebay over a new Rohm plain chuck. You won't be disappointed.

Chris

[Lew Hartswick]

It's not the chuck's fault. Taps are hardened, thats why there is a square on the end of them. Make a set of holders for your taps with a
pair of setscrews that engage the square and the body will be held in
any chuck to turn it. I made a set that holds taps from 4-40 to 3/8-16
and have been using them for several years to tap in the lathe and mill.
Using craped out chucks that the kids have about wrecked at school .
:-)
...Lew...