Mig

[dave5605]

Rws, what are your welding requirements? This will help you determine the machine (ignoring cost for the moment).

That 1st link is for a flux core welder (if I read it right). You will have to get different drive rolls for solid core wire (if that box supports that mode?.

That 2nd machine only goes to 88 amps. Good for sheetmetal only (IMHO).

If you are going to weld on anything that 'goes on the highway' you can't just lay booger welds on top of each other. Too much liability.

Thick steel requires amperage. You are just kidding yourself if you have to do multiple passes on 1/4" plate. Wouldn't trust it no how, no way.

You are going to have to pay more the higher the amperage rating and the higher the duty cycle. Duty cycle goes down as welding current goes up (on any given welder). Flux core welding tends to spatter more. That can be a consideration (it is for me).

So decide what you want to potentially weld and go from there.

Sheetmetal, what gauge range?
Angle/bar/plate 1/8" to what thickness?
Welding things your life depends on (car frame, trailers, gantry crane, something to hold a few thousand pounds)?
Gas vs gasless (flux core)
Ever going to consider aluminum (big buck upgrade in price to do it).
Duty cycle? 80%+ when doing sheetmetal is ok. Push the same welder to do 1/8" or thicker and if the duty cycle drops to 10-20% that is going to really suck.

If you are on a limited budget then probably the best bang for the buck is the Hobart line. They are basically downsized (quality/component wise) Miller welders (probably come off the same production lines). Look at the Hobart handler 140 for about $600-700.

Your next challenge is how are you going to cut whatever you are going to weld together? More $ and more decisions.

[Black Forest]

Wait and buy a real welder. Buy at least a 220 volt machine. Welding is one of those areas that you don't want to buy just what you need at the time of purchase. You will want to weld something heavier and it will be sooner than later.

What is it that you will be welding together? What thickness and how much of it? Duty cycle is very important.

[mitsue]

Wait and buy a real welder. Buy at least a 220 volt machine. Welding is one of those areas that you don't want to buy just what you need at the time of purchase. You will want to weld something heavier and it will be sooner than later.

What is it that you will be welding together? What thickness and how much of it? Duty cycle is very important.

Why tell him to buy a 220v machine if we don't know what thicknesses he plans to weld. I don't like the 220v machine for thin work, tubing etc. They are for different jobs.

[macona]

220 vs 120 means absolutely nothing when it comes to welding thin material. A MIG machine is a constant voltage machine, current is a product of two things, wire diameter and feed rate. So all things being the same a 90 amp machine running off of 120v will perform the same as a 300 amp machine on 240 with .023 wire.

My XMT will run .023 on as thin of metal as you can weld with any other machine. Just like I can do small work on my big lathe.

If 220v is available then I would get a 220v machine. Better to have more capacity than you need than not enough when you don't.

I personally wouldn't buy anything smaller than the Miller or Lincoln 140 amp models. They get real cheap the smaller you go. And with these two machines they make a cheap spool gun add-on that plugs right in.

[Black Forest]

Why tell him to buy a 220v machine if we don't know what thicknesses he plans to weld. I don't like the 220v machine for thin work, tubing etc. They are for different jobs.

Because you can weld anything with a 220 machine that you can weld with a 110 machine. The opposite is not true. Also with no scientific proof I think it is much better to weld at less than the top limit of your machine. Pushing a weld with a just adequate machine is difficult for an experienced welder let alone a beginner.

Just my .02 but worth at least 1000 dollars!

[mitsue]

Because you can weld anything with a 220 machine that you can weld with a 110 machine. The opposite is not true. Also with no scientific proof I think it is much better to weld at less than the top limit of your machine. Pushing a weld with a just adequate machine is difficult for an experienced welder let alone a beginner.

Just my .02 but worth at least 1000 dollars!

If both machines have four heat settings, A, B, C, D, and the 240v model puts out twice as much amperage, which one can you turn down to a lower current setting so you don't blow holes in things?

[rws]

This is for home shop use. I did build a wood splitter a few years ago where I was welding about 3/8" stuff, but that is rare for me. I would say I would get into about 1/4" and down. If the need for heavier welding comes up, I can always make multiple passes in a V'd joint.

I have 220 available, but I would rather have a 120 machine where I can drive it off of my generator if I need it remotely.

[BigMike782]

If both machines have four heat settings, A, B, C, D, and the 240v model puts out twice as much amperage, which one can you turn down to a lower current setting so you don't blow holes in things?

He can turn down the wire feed speed.

[Black Forest]

Get a 220 machine. If you think you will be welding .250 steel you will need the duty cycle of a better machine.

Stop discussing this and buy a 220 unit good to 200 amps. You won't be sorry. If you are Flylo will refund the difference in the cost.

[macona]

If both machines have four heat settings, A, B, C, D, and the 240v model puts out twice as much amperage, which one can you turn down to a lower current setting so you don't blow holes in things?

A 240v machine does not "put out" twice the amperage. You can't push current into something. A 50 amp load will draw 50 amps wether you have a 90 amp or 1000 amp power supply behind it.