Threading 416 Stainless Barrels

[EarlH]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I purchased some of Mike Warners HSS threading inserts and some of Bob Pastor's Vipers Venom and I am very happy with the results. I have slowed down the lathe considerably and am cutting the threads at about 40 - 50 rpm. Rigid cutting oil works about the same as the viper's venom. Viper's Venom is just a bit thicker and clings to the work better. I am still looking for a local source of Bees Wax and will be trying that soon. I also purchased one of Nat's micrometer reamer stops and I am anxious to give that a try. I also purchased a Bald Eagle reamer holder to go with it. I am a bit disappointed in the quality of that device. When set up to ream, the name "Bald Eagle Machine" is upside down. Not a big deal but If I were the manufacturer, I would want my name readable. The other issue is that the rod that you hold to keep the reamer from turning looks like my threads before the HSS inserts and the new cutting oil. Looks terrible - probably could be used as a file.

[1smalljohnson]

Earl,

PM me your shipping address.

1smalljohnson

[EarlH]

I obtained about a half pound of bee's wax. Now what? How is it applied? Do you melt it? Melt it an mix with a little oil?

I also have a small amount of anhydrous lanolin. Same question.

Thanks for your recommendations.

Earl

[Bob Ford]

Take a small amount of bees wax,1inch square. melt at as low heat as possible add about the same amount of cooking lard, then add soluble oil without water until it has the consistency that you want. When cooled down it should have a consistency of a heavy oil. I do this in a soup can and use a brush to apply. I also make it thicker and form a bar that can be rubbed on the work.

Bob

[EarlH]

I have tried the beeswax and lard and even the toilet ring stuff. The toilet ring stuff was a waste of 3 dollars. Very sticky stuff and didn't seem to do much in the way of lubrication. The beeswax worked but not any better than the vipers venom or the rigid dark cutting oil.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Maine 04655]

I have threaded many barrels. If you use good cutting oil and the correct speed you will be fine. I use inserts now for almost everything I love em. In the end you have to use the method that works best for you. Get some scrap of the metal your wanting to machine and experiment.

[1smalljohnson]

Good questions. As to the beeswax, during the process of machining/threading, the metal tends to get hot. At which time, you can apply hard beeswax, and it'll melt to the metal. If you want a lower melting point beeswax, you should add some vaseline to melted beeswax and adjust for your desired melting point/consistency. If you want the melting point really low, add some mineral oil.

I have used rigid oil, and others, but seems to me that the quality of a 416 SS thread cut with beeswax looks the sharpest, with low chatter/best looking thread.

I also use beeswax when using a parting tool, and it's truly awesome.

If you want to spend money, anhydrous lanolin works well too.

I get my beeswax from the local honey makers. I get it cheap. If I didn't have access to it, I'd likely use rigid oil or some other high sulpher cutting oil.

I am a cheap bastrd.

Best regards,

1smalljohnson

[Maine 04655]

I have a coolant pump set up but I only really use it on heavy cutting jobs of long jobs. I like to see what I am cutting allot of the time so coolant is not always my favorite choice.

[Butch Lambert]

I am a big fan of Arthur Warner's HSS threading inserts and Bob Pastor's Vipers Venom. I thread to the shoulder, but am not a speed demon. I don't have to impress anybody but myself. I don't plunge straight in, I use the compound.

[Maine 04655]

I don't have to impress anybody but myself.

There you go. That is great advice. Get scrap and practice and get to the method that works best for you.