Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: Can this motor be reversed?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Artfull's diagram makes sense, I had to physically dig into the
    windings to find that other connection (it was not brought
    out to the connection board) on my H.F. drill press.

    It was touch and go for awhile (I'm pretty shakey), but
    got the wire stripped, and connected, and glued back down
    into the rest of the end windings (for vibration protection).

    I applied spray varnish liberally as well, those motors are
    pretty shaky in that respect (dry windings)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default







    Ok,

    To go from Artful's diagram. The Black lead connects through the board to the red wire which goes into the winding. The White lead come to the board and is connected to the green, uninterrupted, and the green goes into the winding. The White lead also makes connection to the motor side white wire when the contact points on the little contact switch (on the board) make contact and that motor side white wire runs up into the housing on the top of the motor and then back out still as a white wire and is wired into the winding. Clear as mud I'm sure. All wires that go into the winding are not shielded from one another although they go into the winding at different points the copper winding is all touching so it appears that current can flow between all of the points where the wires attach to the winding.
    regards

    3t

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    293

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Artful Bodger
    I am not sure that would be practical as the switch is operated by the weights assembly which is pressed onto the shaft and would have to be swapped to the other end of the rotor.
    The centrifigual switch wouldn't have to come off the rotor shaft. Turning the rotor around would move the switch to the other end and the other part of the switch on the bell end would also be moved to the other end when swapping places with the bell ends.

    Care taken that spring washer and any other washers behind the bearing is moved with the bell end.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default

    This will most likely show my lack of knowledge on electric motors (if that was not already obvious) but look at the first 2 diagrams in this link. It looks like reversing the leads to the winding reverses the rotation of the motor. In my case that would mean reversing the red and green connections to the winding. Is this correct?

    http://www.electrical-contractor.net...it_Phase_.html
    regards

    3t

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ashburton, near Christchurch New Zealand
    Posts
    3,971

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 3t-
    This will most likely show my lack of knowledge on electric motors (if that was not already obvious) but look at the first 2 diagrams in this link. It looks like reversing the leads to the winding reverses the rotation of the motor. In my case that would mean reversing the red and green connections to the winding. Is this correct?

    http://www.electrical-contractor.net...it_Phase_.html

    Yes, that is right, you just have to reverse the leads to the start winding (you could alternatively reverse the connections to the run winding).

    The trick is to find the ends of one winding, or the other.

    Can I see two winding wires connected to the green wire? How many are connected to the red wire?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default

    The Red wire has 3 copper wires from the winding connected to it.

    The white has 1 copper wire from the winding connected to it. And yes the Green has 2.
    regards

    3t

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default The rest of the story

    Ok,

    So here is the reason for this CW vs CCW discussion. I picked this little jewel up Saturday Afternoon and after a few hours of complete part by part disassemble and cleaning/oiling it would seem that it never saw a day of use after leaving the factory. All the parts are in great shape, and the bearing parts are still very tight and smooth running. Gears are in great shape.

    The tension spring operates a bar that runs under the large gear front to back. The large gear has an eccentric hub on the inside that bears down on the bar (for 1/2 of the rotation) which has spring tension on it also. So you get a downward pressure on the saw frame and blade for half the rotation of the pully and relief from the downward pressure on the other half of the rotation. Not exactly an upward lift but at least no downward pressure.

    Here is the puzzle.

    When the pully and hence the gear is run COUNTER clockwise (facing the pulley) the saw puts downward pressure on the forward stroke and relief on the return stroke. When the pulley is run CLOCKWISE the downward pressure on the frame/blade is on the reward stroke and relief on the forward stroke.

    There is a noticeable difference on the amount of downward pressure on the blade. It seems to be somewhat greater with the mechanism is run CCW so that the downward pressure is on the forward stroke and relief on the rearward stroke.

    When run CW the downward pressure coming on the rearward stroke is less than the downward pressure was on the forward stroke when run CCW

    It would suggest that there is much more cutting force exerted when run CCW, cutting on the forward and relief on the rearward. It could cut either way obviously by just facing the blade teeth the proper way.

    Which is correct...about half of the reading I have done says these saws cut best on the forward cutting setup and half suggests cutting on the rearward stroke.

    What say you?

    The before:











    Sorry for such a long post.

    Edit in All CAPS, I had the clockwise/counter clockwise behavior backwards.
    Last edited by 3t-; 02-28-2012 at 06:28 PM.
    regards

    3t

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default The after







    regards

    3t

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    SW Michigan
    Posts
    2,799

    Default

    I have an old one that cuts on the pull or back strole putting the pressure on the solid rest & picks the blade up on the push stroke.
    The richest man hasn't the most but needs the least.
    Keep Calm and carry Guns! Old Friend of Old Iron.
    Always Plan for the Future but Live for the Moment!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Chilliwack, B.C.
    Posts
    8,268

    Default

    I would think the cutting stroke should be towards the fixed jaw. At the same time, the connecting rod should be going around the bottom of the crank disc. In other words, as we're looking at it, the crank disc should be going ccw.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •