This looks good for a mill table

[Black Forest]

I came across this stop on Ebay. It would be useful on a milling table to use with a vise to relocate work maybe? It wouldn't be too hard to build.

[oldtiffie]

It is a pretty flash up-market milling machine table stop.

http://www.google.com.au/#hl=en&gs_n...w=1280&bih=523

[GKman]

It wouldn't be too hard to build.

You would have to have that orange a purple stuff to build it.

[ZINOM]

"You would have to have that orange a purple stuff to build it."


^^^
That's hilarious.

John

[sasquatch]

Could be very popular in a woman's home shop!!

Bet "Martha Stewart" has them in her shop!!!!

[T.Hoffman]

I have one of these multicolored stops.

......it was black and white in the non-colored catalog.
I had no idea this thing was going to be this color when that order came in.

I made a larger dia base washer for it too.

[mochinist]

with those colors it would be easy to find on my messy shop table

[Black Forest]

With a name like Bruce there is no way I would have that color tool in my shop!

I thought it would be useful to mount by the vise as a work stop for something. I am not sure what but it must be useful.

[Paul Alciatore]

That sure looks neet-o, but exactly how sturdy is it. I mean, how much does that double jointed arm flex when you shove a part against it? And how much has it moved after doing so a dozen or more times when making even a small batch of parts?

I made my own stops from solid steel bar. Four holes at different distances from the top at each of four corners provide eight different heights and additional spacer blocks under it add additional inches in increments. I also use large clamps from my clamp set for spacers. Mounts with a stud from the clamp set in a center hole. Pure simplicity with a lot of versatility and rock solid.



The numbers next to the threaded holes represent the height of those holes from the bottom in sixteenths. By flipping it over you get different spacings, eight in all, in 1/8" increments. Half of the numbers are upside down to read correctly when it is flipped. I made several different lengths of 1/4-20 threaded rod to fit the holes. A coupling nut fastened on the ends of these rods with Loctite makes a quick, nice handle for adjustment. If you don't want the fine adjustment allowed by the threaded rods, you can omit threading the holes and use plain rod.

Sorry, no Mardi Gras colors. http://www.mardigrasneworleans.com/

[Black_Moons]

I would put an arm right through the center of that workstop inbeween the two pivot points, that way when you tighten the top cam, it locks both joints at once.