I think I'd have just made a new one. :-)
1.) Yup, works best when the entire part is submerged.
Originally Posted by rmuell01
2.) If the inside is narrow (ie passage, pipe, etc.) use a cloth wrapped around a piece of rebar of chain. The cloth will keep it from shorting out.
3.) I leave the part in for anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks depending. Each day, pull the rebar and the part in question. Scrape the crud off of the rebar, wash off the parts (rinse with garden hose), submerge again. If you remember to clean everything every 12-24 hours, it doesn't take too long. I usually forget...that's why the "up to 3 weeks" part mentioned above!!
4.) Yes, let it cook, but it also needs to be cleaned off as rust/paint/grease/grime gets loose.
5.) Well, that's no fun!
You can cover an electrode in plastic window screen material and place it inside an item to derust its interior.
Shoot! Andrew D beat me to it.
Maybe more power.I was using my 6 amp battery charger and found 6/12/24 volt charger with higher amp output and I have had plane bodies warm enough the water was starting to steam.
I'm curious about the polarity that you used in your electrolysis with washing soda. Articles that I've read, state that the negative is connected to the part in the mix. I recently did some chrome removal in electrolysis with a cup of muriatic acid in 4 gallons of water and used positive on the part based on several articles that I read.
I've looked on the internet and can't find the reason for the oppositve polatrity unless it is due to the difference between the alkaline washing soda and the muriatic acid.
The chrome was removed from a Harley part in less than an hour. I used a the 6 volt 6 amp setting on my 6/12 battery charger. I first tried 12 volts, 2 amps but it kept opening the internal breaker in the charger. I suspect that there was too much current on 12 volts. In any case, 6 volts was fine. It removed the chrome down to the nickel, which was what I wanted since I was able to bead blast the nickel sufficiently for powder coating preparation.
I'd provide pictures but I don't want to steal your thread. It looks like you did well. I am curious about the difference in polarities in any case. For the record, I tried negative on the Harley part and it didn't do anything.
Last edited by gnm109; 05-03-2012 at 08:22 PM.
The difference in polarity is because of the pH of the liquid. Acid wants one polarity and base wants the other. I can never remember which is which, and always have to look it up.
Originally Posted by armedandsafe
Great! Thanks. I'm certain that the part takes positive in acid chrome plating removal so it would have to be negative on the part for electrolytic rust removal with waching soda.
I wonder if acid could be used to remove rust......?