4x6 Metal Bandsaw Mods

[DICKEYBIRD]

Shoot, I wish someone'd show me how to open the plastic inner bag in a cereal box. The stupid manufacturer's turn up their RF sealer machines so high the bags are permanently welded together and won't split apart neatly like they used to.

[lynnl]

Shoot, I wish someone'd show me how to open the plastic inner bag in a cereal box. The stupid manufacturer's turn up their RF sealer machines so high the bags are permanently welded together and won't split apart neatly like they used to.

Well, that's true too, Dickeybird.

I guess I picked a bad example.

[outback]

The reason the saw blade jump off the drive wheel is the blade hits a snag in the saw kerf and stops the blade. The drive wheel keeps on turning against a blade that won't move and in a couple of turns of the wheel the blade works
its way off the drive wheel. This is why my plate works.

Another thing I have noticed when sawing near the end of a cut is the cut piece can swing upward and work just like a disk brake caliper, pinching the blade and stop it cold in its tracks. Usually the saw swarf under the stock makes it work like a disk brake. Keep the cutting area clean seems to reduce problems.

The problem with my "Saw blade retaining block" is when the blade snags and stops moving sometimes the drivewheel also stops leaving slippage in one area??? The drive belt!!!!! I have completely burned up the plastic belt guard and 2 drive belts because the blade snagged I the saw was running and I was not around the stop the saw. Scary because the shop fills up with smoke.

Bi-metal blade are the only way to go. I gave away some new flex back blades to my bro-in-law. I figure the flex back blades are not worth the time
to install.

Oops,,,by the way, my 4 X 6 saw is running. I better go check!!!!

Okay this time but this is what I find sometimes!!!



Jim

[panofish]

I realise this might sound somewhat cynical but find it hard to believe someone bothered to make a video of fitting a wooden base and changing the legs and bandsaw gear box oil and to then call this a way to tune up a chinese bandsaw. I was expecting to see something more significant like fitting ceramic blade guides or adding a coolant tank or something of a worthwhile nature.

Please realize that there are many levels of experience.
I do appreciate that many on this forum have much more experience than me. I only wished to share what I had done with anyone else that might find it useful.

[Rex]

Please realize that there are many levels of experience.
I do appreciate that many on this forum have much more experience than me. I only wished to share what I had done with anyone else that might find it useful.

Thanks for sharing, you opened up a good discussion.
I bet most of us did not realize you were posting your own work, as opposed to an anonymous website.

[panofish]

Thanks for sharing, you opened up a good discussion.
I bet most of us did not realize you were posting your own work, as opposed to an anonymous website.

Ah... that clarifies it. Sorry if I came across overly defensive.

[DICKEYBIRD]

Okay this time but this is what I find sometimes!!!

Wow, your motor must be twice as powerful as mine Jim! Mine won't start up on it's own and I have to give the pulley a twist to get it going. Been that way from day one and I intend to replace it....one of these days.

[KiddZimaHater]

Mine won't start up on it's own and I have to give the pulley a twist to get it going. Been that way from day one and I intend to replace it....one of these days

HAHAHAHA... mine too.
Except, I replaced the toasted Chinese motor with a new Baldor (thinking I was smart), and after the first 5 or 6 starts the capacitor died, so now I "Manually" start my bandsaw too.

I also agree with DICKEYBIRD about thost stupid cereal bags. Everytime I rip one open, half of the cereal goes flying all over the kitchen.

[rohart]

I didn't think much of the new table. On mine - similar saw, but sold as portable, and it's just about liftable - there was no table as supplied, and no fittings for one. It's the saw sold by Axminster in the UK as MCB100.

I made a table out of the same 1/4" ally, but I supported it not just at the centre bracket but twice more, with angled ally supports, welded up and removeable. It does take 5 1/2 minutes to dismantle, but then it's strong enough to support three feet of 6" x 6" angle iron without any deflection at all. I can't see his table handling off centre loads.

Yeah, I know, pictures. Maybe I'll edit some snaps in tomorrow.

[BobL]

Please realize that there are many levels of experience.
I do appreciate that many on this forum have much more experience than me. I only wished to share what I had done with anyone else that might find it useful.

I'm sorry if my comment offended you. I do understand that there are many levels of experience. Compared to some others I to am not as experienced or professional as it might sound.

I used to have a lot of trouble with the blade coming off but since I read somewhere (I think it was on this forum) that tightening the blade by hand almost to the point where it cannot be tightened any further (not a very technical term I know) I have not had it come off unless the blade jammed in the cut. When I was cutting the 220 mm long cut I released the support tension to absolute minimum and even loaded up the free end of the saw with some lumps of steel and the blade still did not come off.