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Thread: DC 230V motor, driver - need help.

  1. #21
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    The stud mounted bridge would be for the armature, and the flat style bridge will most likely be for the field, a bit of tracing and 'reverse engineering' should confirm it?
    Max.
    Last edited by MaxHeadRoom; 05-30-2012 at 10:48 AM.

  2. #22
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    It looks like the cap and resistors are a firing circuit for the thyristor device. The green and yellow wires seem to come over to the thyristor device from them.

    The circuit isn't clear and the Varo VT200 datasheet fails to give the pinout...... So I am not sure how the circuit is set up.... But it does not look very complex, likely an app-note circuit, looks like it could be similar to some in my old manual of thyristor info from the year one.

    One would have to trace it out, and the game might not be worth the candle.....

    You need to run the motor on plain rectified AC

    Oh... one OTHER issue...... That Varo VT200...... it is a 200V bridge, and will NOT be suitable for 230V..... it is barely good enough for 120V.

    So that won't give you much info , I'd expect it to be slow on 120V.

    You need a good 25A 600V (or higher ) rectifier, such as this one that uses faston tab connectors (no soldering)

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...51GI-ND/754829

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers
    That Varo VT200...... it is a 200V bridge, and will NOT be suitable for 230V..... it is barely good enough for 120V.

    You need a good 25A 600V (or higher ) rectifier, such as this one that uses faston tab connectors (no soldering)

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...51GI-ND/754829
    Took me a minute, did not realize that was a rectifier
    I ordered a couple of those rectifiers.

    Which component is the thyristor?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowbare
    I would feed 120 to the bridge for starters, that will give you about 165 VDC, enough to confirm the motor works. Once you have the rest of the control figured out, then you can hook it up to 230V.

    bob
    Wait.... just feeding 120V AC through a bridge rectifier bumps it up to 165V DC?
    How does that work?

  5. #25
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    You will only get 160+ with capacitors after the bridge, but your does not have caps so you are going to get something less that 120vdc.
    All the stud mount rectifiers I have seen like that have the markings on them.
    You are most likely going to find the the Triac has the AC into it, then out of the Triac to the stud mount bridge which will go directly to the armature.
    The Triac (thyristor) is the TIC263.
    Max.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rex
    Wait.... just feeding 120V AC through a bridge rectifier bumps it up to 165V DC?
    How does that work?
    120V AC is 120V x 1.414 = 169V peak. The difference between peak and RMS voltage.

    The 169V peak will drop a bit under load in most cases. More if not filtered by capacitor...... but my voltage reference was to the peak, which the rectifier has to stand up to...... 230V rms has 325V peak.

    The thyristor is the "transistor", the TIC 263. Triacs and SCRs are "thyristors"

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