Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: rust blue problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    18

    Default rust blue problem

    I"m attempting my first rust blue job and seem to have a problem. Following the AIG video, I degreased the parts, heated with a hair dryer, applied the first coat of acid, followed with the second 2 hours later, let it rust for 8 hours. I had a beatiful red rust. I boiled the parts for 20 minutes and got the black velvet look I was expecting. After carding everything looked very nice. I really thought it was going good. This morning I applied the 3rd coat, let rust 8hrs, boiled for 30 min but the parts still looked red rust. I'm fairly sure somethings not right. What did I do wrong? I could sure use some advice.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Never had that happen. Don't know what you're using for acid, but I use Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown and Degreaser, and in humid weather I get a nice rust in 3-4 hrs, then boil, and card. You have to degrease your carding brush, or steel wool with Brakleen spray. The carding brush can't be anything but really fine carbon steel, no SS. Also, the boiling tank can't have any oil spots on the surface---a pad of paper towel dabbed on the surface quickly will pull off oil that escaped out of crevices in the gun hen immersed into the boiling water. Water must be boiling when dunking. 4-5 coats usually do my guns nicely.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    27

    Default

    PS: You could try and card, then boil again. This isn't a Winchester M94 made after 1964, is it? These have high nickel cast receivers, that turn purple sometimes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xs hedspace
    PS: You could try and card, then boil again. This isn't a Winchester M94 made after 1964, is it? These have high nickel cast receivers, that turn purple sometimes.
    It is a post 64 but I haven't started on the action. Just going to do the barrel and leave the black on the receiver. I had cleaned the carding wheel really well before I started. I carded all the parts this morning and the finish looks very even. It seems the hardest parts like the hammer and bolt didn't turn black. I think I'll try heating them a little more and try a 4th coat and just see what happens. btw I'm using brownell classic rust. Going to give them a call today and see what they suggest.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    377

    Default

    Hardened parts don't rust blue well. There is not much you can do about it.
    If you can't get acceptable blue in 4 rusting cycles, then more ain't going to help in my experience. If you keep pushing it, the color you have will start to fade and the surface will pit. BTW, Distilled water in the boiling tank is a must for consistent results.

    RWO

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    18

    Default

    I used fresh distilled water in a meticulously cleaned tank and a new bottle of solution. I talked to a brownell tech today who said this isn't that uncommon and the directions should note the possibility of this occurring. I think I'll just do 2 more coats on the hammer and bolt to see if I can get a little darker. If not they still look very nice and in fairness I've seen lots of weapons with different shade parts in the action. btw I really appreciate all the advice. Thanks.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •