Been there, probably broke it, doing that!
I am not a lawyer, and never played one on TV!
All the usual and standard disclaimers apply. Do not try this at home, use only as directed, No warranties express or implied, for the intended use or the suggested uses, Wear safety glasses, closed course, professionals only
The aluminium ferrules are for your galvanised wire, the copper are for stainless wire.
Copper may be stronger than the Aluminium, both are stronger than the wire when correctly done.
This company do it correctly. http://www.talurit.com/webbplats/sho...ge_English.asp
You will find a company like then in your country.
If this is for a lifting application or is mission critical you might be better to get someone to do the crimps ( with quality assured ferrules) for you.
Last edited by Davidhcnc; 08-25-2012 at 08:04 PM. Reason: It's late. Spelling has gone bad
"...do you not think you have enough machines?"
When I built my airplane I crimped a lot of ends of 1/8 inch cables. Here is how they looked when finished. This was one of my rudder cable turnbuckle connections.
This is a plated copper Nico Press. I used a commercial tool, with about 30" long handles. Each Nico Press has three crimps. You start with the center, then do the one next to the cable eye, and the cable exit end last. The tool has 3 or 4 different crimp openings, (holes) and you must use the right one for the Nico Press you are using. You can see that when done properly, they really come out very nice. And, there is no way you can pull it apart, before breaking the cable, when properly installed.
I borrowed the tool from my local Experimental Aircraft Chapter. Most have these tools for loan to home builders to use. The particular tool that I used was about 30 years old and cost over $100 back when it was purchased. Really very heavy duty. One of the guys at my Chapter told me the tool was rated an 3 tons for my size of crimp. One heck of a mechanical advantage with about a 36 inch hand operated tool.
If you want to see all of this kind of stuff in one place, take a look at the Aircraft Spruce website. Look up cable crimping tools and supplies, you will find it all there.
A visit to your local airport, and finding any pilot will put you in touch with someone who has one of these tools. And I bet if you ask, it could be borrowed.
My Web Site
Builder & Test Pilot N73EX
The crimps are Nico. I think they may have had a special 4 segment die made special. I like the idea of leaving about 3/4" of tail sticking out past the ferrule end, it's a good way to tell if it's slipping. I was also told by the same engineer that it's not necssary to have the tail, but I'm leary of having the cable cut right at the end of the ferrule. Was also told that two ferrules won't make any difference in holding power as the cable should break before the crimp slips. If the crimp were to start slipping I think that the tail would ad to the holding power as the frayed end of the cable would have to compress and pull into the fitting.
I also measured the space between each segment of several cables and every one of the segments is spaced exactly to the thou.
No one can place a hand crimper that accuratly, there would be some variation. I know there is a check gage, I'm sure they must use one and they do give all the finished cables the pull test before sending them out.
I’ve never played with the little stuff but was a crane rigger in a former life. We always used a fid and back braded first, otherwise OSHA said we could only use 85% of the lines WLL or 60% with the bolt on clamps. Never saddle a dead horse and always torque to proper specks with the bolt on clamps.
Anybody that thinks they know it all doesn’t even know enough to understand they know nothing!
Watch this video closely.
The proper way to do this is to separate the strands into 2 groups.
Form a loop and back wind them on to each other.
The lays will fit back together, making for a smooth cable again in the form of the loop.
Then when the ends meet again, secure them with a furrell.
Without the furrell, the cable is 85% as strong as with the furrell.
What the video leaved off is the crimping of the furrell.
Done in a press, usually a smaller 4 poster, at least 500 tons.
Using a furrell without the interweaving is just second rate.
You will NOT see a rigger or an ironworker use a choker with the ends not interwoven.
Thats interesting but they don't do that with smaller cables and thinbles.
I used some 1/4 cable to replace the tailgate chains on my old pickup
truck box. I wove the strands around the eyelet just like the video. Actually I did not have any
crimp furrells, so I wrapped the terminations with tape. That was 13 years ago.
The tailgate cables still hold.