Shaft for Hydraulic motor ?

[KiloBravo]

Hi Guys,

Been a while since I posted doing the work, wife and kids thing.
I need a little advice. I busted the shaft on a hydraulic motor that powers my hyrda bagger.
AKA a glorified leaf collection system. They do not sell the shaft only the motor. $825.
I paid $800 for the used tractor with hydra-bagger, so that is out of my price range.

Anyone turn a shaft for something like this ? Is 12L14 OK to use or do I need something stiffer ?
It does not look that hard to make about 6 inches long with two key slots one woodruff and one square.
I have a SB Heavy 10 that should be up for the task. Anyone know what kind of tolerance I would need ?

Also, anyone know what kind of bolts are holding the hydra motor together ? The bolt heads look like they are a spline.

pretty good pics of a similar unit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ingersoll-Hy...-/130795113122

If you can take a look page 14 and 15 of the pdf my motor is the cc33108.
www.rottmansales.com/ingersoll/8-3082.pdf

Thanks,
Kevin

[achtanelion]

No ideas about the shaft, but the screws look like external torx.

J

[kd4gij]

The bolts are star head. Your local auto parts should have the sockets.

[duckman]

I personally would use a 43** type steel you want high impact, the tolerance's want to be really close and the seal surface wants to be polished. You might want to try and find out why it broke, look at the break carefully and see if you can figure why it broke, there may be enough wear on the rotor to make unbalanced.

[wierdscience]

Those shafts are usually induction hardened 1050 or 1095 steel,not exactly something that can be done in the homeshop.Once you have the motor apart you may find they have neelde or roller bearings running right on the hardened shaft further complicating the situation.

Is there any way to modify the machine so the rotor rides on it's own set of bearings and could be driven by an off the self Hyd motor through a coupling?That would eliminate the need for the special motor shaft and $$$ motor.

[KiloBravo]

I personally would use a 43** type steel you want high impact, the tolerance's want to be really close and the seal surface wants to be polished. You might want to try and find out why it broke, look at the break carefully and see if you can figure why it broke, there may be enough wear on the rotor to make unbalanced.

The reason it broke was I sucked up a large branch under the leaves and it jammed the impellor.

[KiloBravo]

Yes, it has two sets of roller bearings riding right on the shaft.

A guy posted on a tractor forum that his broke the same way and he had a machine shop make him one and it was still going strong 3 years later. He did not give any details on how it was made just that he disassembled the motor and took the shaft to the machine shop.

[KiloBravo]

This is it.

[KiloBravo]

I do not have the motor apart yet, but I think it broke right where the number 9 arrow is pointing on the picture.
I talked to a dealer and he said it was steel, but I swear it looks like cast iron on the break. It almost looks like the shaft from the motor has an insert over top of it and that part goes in the impellor. I have not seen any shaft failure so I really have no clue but that's what it looks like.

[wierdscience]

I do not have the motor apart yet, but I think it broke right where the number 9 arrow is pointing on the picture.
I talked to a dealer and he said it was steel, but I swear it looks like cast iron on the break. It almost looks like the shaft from the motor has an insert over top of it and that part goes in the impellor. I have not seen any shaft failure so I really have no clue but that's what it looks like.

That sounds like a typical induction hardened shaft break.The outer 1/8" or so will be hard and show a finer grain appearance while the center will appear coarse and grainy like cast ion.
The fact they have the roller bearings running right on the shaft is also a dead giveaway.

Any chance we can get a picture once it's apart?