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Thread: Axle shafts

  1. #1
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    Default Axle shafts

    I am rebuilding a transmission from a 1960 Wheel Horse and the axle shafts are simply round stock with Woodruff keys on each end.The shafts are scored and the key ways are "wallored" and I would like to make new ones.
    I have a piece of what I believe is 1018 is that good enough or is there something better/more durable?
    Opinions?

  2. #2
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    If you look up the specs the material is much more likely to be something stronger. Some are listed as 1040 but others are 4140, could be something else. Does it matter???????? When you get over 1040 shock loading can be a problem.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

  3. #3
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    Since I know absolutely nothing about your Wheel Horse I'm not even going to toss out a "this could/should work" material selection.
    But I will direct you to a couple of Wheel Horse forums where you'll likely find a definitive answer to your question. Probably more info there than you need.

    http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/

    http://www.wheelhorse.org/phpBB3/index.php
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    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

  4. #4
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    Without more details I'd go with 4140 and heat treat it. If you don't have a heat treat oven go with 4140 that has previously been heat treated to ~30Rc (sometimes called 4140 PH or HT). It's common and can be ordered readily online and is relatively straightforward to machine and is very wear resistant. Just use coolant or cutting oil when machining.
    I'd avoid 1018 as its not very durable in shock loading.

  5. #5
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    It's a garden tractor for cripes sake, not a top fuel dragster.
    Jim H.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHannum View Post
    It's a garden tractor for cripes sake, not a top fuel dragster.
    Did you even question how the old ones failed??? There must have been some torque and wear applied to them to cause:
    The shafts are scored and the key ways are "wallored" and I would like to make new ones.
    If a job is worth doing its worth doing right, or you can refuse to learn from the past and keep repeating yourself.

  7. #7
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    It all depends on how you intend to use the beast.

    If it has to earn its keep then the 4140 suggestion is a good one, if it is just needs to look pretty and be able to move under its own power once or twice a year then the 1018 will be fine.

  8. #8
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    The WH guys are all great guys but most just change parts or find another serviceable part so that's why I figured it was better to ask a bunch of machinists.

    Nope,not building a top fueler but it will have to carry a fair load....me.I am mainly concerned with having a smooth surface for the new axle bushings to ride on and the keys to have a solid footing.

  9. #9
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    I would seriously doubt that they were anything more exotic than 1018 to begin with. The tractor has a four or five horsepower engine and belt drive. Shock load is pretty much nonexistant. The original drive depends on nothing more than a woodruff key to transmit the final drive.

    If it makes you feel good, use 1144, the cost difference is probably not that great over 1018. I certainly would not be concerned with heat treating and such.
    Jim H.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob ward View Post
    It all depends on how you intend to use the beast.

    If it has to earn its keep then the 4140 suggestion is a good one, if it is just needs to look pretty and be able to move under its own power once or twice a year then the 1018 will be fine.
    Not sure about beast......the Cub Cadet 2072 it sets next to,now THERE is a beast,for a garden tractor.
    The amount of use it gets will depend on how well I do. If I get it to a point where it will pull an 8" mold board plow it might or I might even plow snow with it.

    I believe I will source some 1144 and have at it.
    I really appreciate the help guys.
    Thanks.

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