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Thread: What did you machine today?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    29,655

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    Set up the dividing head and got a gear blank gashed.....

    other than that wasn't machining, cutting grass, cleaning stuff, more reassembling a South bend 405.... oh, yeah, minor fixes to the toolpost for that, used a drill and a mill. Ran around to some tag sales, picked up a book on sundials... always wanted to put one up on the south-facing front of the house.... now I have a reference for designing it.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    546

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    Started to work on a new extended tail-stock quill... not complete yet, but heres some of todays work.
    Stock is 4140 heat-treated, 12" long 2.75 dia; finished to 1.260x7" X 2.625x4"

    Roughing the OD:


    After OD was roughed (.100 over sized) but small enough to flip around and fit in spindle tube, started to drill, 5/8 drill with 8" of flute: (hole is just clearence for the screw that runs through it, screw threads into a brass sleeve.)


    Flip around again and finish drill (only 4" deep to complete through whole):


    While the steady rest was in place, finished bore for the screws sleeve, .75 x .937 deep. After that put a slight chamfer on the ID, brough the tail stock back in and finished the OD (1.2602) which sits in the tail-stock housing. Removed piece, transfered the hole patteren for the sleeve, drilled and tapped that and got ready for reaming the MT3.

    Milled the flat on the top (probly gonna mount a cheapo 6" digial caliper on top) along with a .22 x 4.5" long groove in the bottom of the section which slide in the tail-stock housing for the "bottom guide screw" to move in.

    Before reaming i roughed the bore to .73ish, put the quill in the tail-stock, locked it in place and put a 5/8 boring bar in the lathes chuck and ran it into the quill about .100 deep and it cut a .79ish bore which i used to help guide the reamer.

    Using a lathe dog with the spindle spinning at 70ish started to ream the whole with a MT3-Roughing reamer. Locking the tail-stock to the bed and snugging the quill lock i started to spin the hand-wheel roughly 1/4 inch in, retracked quill, moved tail-stock in, locked everything and moved in another 1/4... about 1/2 done now, will finish tomarrow.


    So far the project is going OK, the most important part, the OD which sits in the tail-stocks housing is "egged" (or ovel) about .0007. Not sure what happen there... i think it has somthing to do with the current quill being extened all the way out, but had no choice in this (hence the reasion for the extened quill, the glass scale on the cross slide soaks up most of the tail-stocks travel). If i ever get (or rig up a grinder) i will remake this and use the grinder to finish the tight OD. Used the tail-stock to make sure there was no tapper, over the 7" there is only one to two tenths (small side is farthest in the tail-stock) which i can live with... For now, it seams like it will be better then the orginal...

    _

  3. #23
    dewat Guest

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    I made all of these parts before noon.............. really, yesterday was before noon and last week and ........... For scale the plates on the right are .5"x4"x11"





  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    118

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    A couple days ago I cut a motorcycle cam in half and put it back together with an altered firing order. This is one of my routine jobs.



    A week or so ago I ground down a 530 sprocket to fit a 520 chain. This was done out of pure desperation, I don't recommend it.





    Before that, I cast and machined a couple alternator adapters for a buddy of mine.


  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Nottingham, England
    Posts
    16,177

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    Quote Originally Posted by iMisspell View Post






    _
    Brilliant.
    Why can't more tailstock be built this way, it used to be that the older machines had necked tailstock casting and decent travels.
    However the new breed is just square to the front and because of the missing hang over, travels are limited to 3" or 4"
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.




  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Stevens Point, WI
    Posts
    7,421

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Stevenson View Post
    Brilliant.
    Why can't more tailstock be built this way, it used to be that the older machines had necked tailstock casting and decent travels.
    However the new breed is just square to the front and because of the missing hang over, travels are limited to 3" or 4"


    And here I thought you were going to say "Brilliant, a date stamp in the picture."

    This whole page is brilliant! I love it all!
    Andy

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    221

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs View Post
    A couple days ago I cut a motorcycle cam in half and put it back together with an altered firing order. This is one of my routine jobs.



    A week or so ago I ground down a 530 sprocket to fit a 520 chain. This was done out of pure desperation, I don't recommend it.





    Before that, I cast and machined a couple alternator adapters for a buddy of mine.

    Twingle on a Yamaha XS650 I suppose???

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    118

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    Quote Originally Posted by shawnspeed View Post
    Twingle on a Yamaha XS650 I suppose???
    It is an XS650 cam. I mostly do 277's but have done a 720 (twingle) and a few 270's.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Cheyenne Wyo
    Posts
    645

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    I've been working on the #5 coke bottle steam kit from Precision Research. Fried the circuits in my brain, trying to figure out how to obtain perfect alignment between frame and cylinder, when there is a piece between called the internal head, and there is no fair way to transfer the hole locations. What I devised is a 15 step process with assorted bits to make along the way. I'm nearly there, and I think it's going to work out. Sorry, no photos and this is a lame description. Just saying, the prints just tell you what needs to happen but no clues how to get there. It's a wonderful puzzle. One of these little steam kits generally keeps me busy all winter. And it's still winter here in Wyo.
    I'm here hoping to advancify my smartitude.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Nottingham, England
    Posts
    16,177

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    Much gnashing of teeth today, 1,340 to be exact.



    Decided to make some Myford 33 / 34 screwcutting gears for metric screwcutting on the imperial gearbox models.

    Gert was out of stock and giving me some grief.
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.




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