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Thread: Want to make a bench grinder arbor

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gizmo2 View Post
    I made my buffer with collet ends and nuts, then the arbor stays with the wheel. Think of the business end of a Dremel tool. Not commercially available... but once you true the wheel on it's arbor it stays that way.
    That it an interesting option. Ay photos of you setup? What size motor and wheels on yours? Thanks

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest Addy View Post
    You got a lathe? Can you borrow one?

    Bench grinder arbors are much better if purpose machined. Nuts, washers. and pipe spacer on threaded rod does not cut it. Besides being lame looking and ugly (not a problem with me) they will not perform well (a big problem with me). A threaded rod arbor will be crooked, run out of balance, and a re-mounted wheel will require heavy dressing to true it up.

    Square shoulders, machined flanges, accurate bearing fits, true running RH and LH threads, and a smooth diameter to center the wheel on are all vital attributes for a good grinding arbor. The bearings can be pillow blocks (bronze or ball) or in a machined housing. It could be a monument to home shop fabrication or a simple belt driven arbor in bearings in the same fashion uor grandpas made theirs.

    I bet I made a million bench grinder arbors over the years - well 50? 30? something like that. I made one for my dad in sealed housings. It was a monster made to his design to fit a 16" wheel he scrounged. We got it all set up but before we mounted the wheel, I "rung" it - tapped it with a screwdriver handle. Clunk! Not "ding" but "clunk." It was cracked. Rats. We had an arbor but no wheel. Too bad. A wheel that size would go for $200. I still got the arbor and bearings.

    Anyway, you can buy heavy pattern RH and LH nuts but the arbor and flanges if not store bought as arbor components have to be made.

    But it starts with a machined arbor.
    What diameter wheel is your setup made for?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PT Doc View Post
    What diameter wheel is your setup made for?
    It's a relic sort of belonging to the family heritage - translation: my heirs will garage sale it not knowing what it's for regardless of the tag I have on it.

    It was built for a 3" x 16" AlOx grinding wheel like they use in foundries on the felltling line. No guards no bearing bracket, just double ended arbor and bearings in sealed housings. Bracketry, guards and tool rests will have to be made for it.

  4. #14
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    Dec 2007
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    Whatever you make a good guard covering 60% of the wheel helps, especially a big wheel, I was unfortunate enough to have a mate killed by an exploding 16" wheel, The guard was too flimsy so a big chunk went through it and took the side of his head off, I had never seen a dead body before so it stays with me, we were outside the workshop smoking not 5 mins before, next thing I know everyone was covered in blood and brains, I suddenly found a new respect for machines.
    Mark

  5. #15
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    Grinding wheel guards do have to have proportionate beef. Sheet metal is adequate for a 6 x 1/2 wheel but a 40 lb grinding wheel running at 1500 RPM requires major containment.

    Back in the day I gave up on the maintenence shop's priority list and replaced the motor bearings on a 16" Hammond pedestal grinder central to roughing of HSS tools in the heavy tool section. Ham said the bearings sounded like a "si-reen fiulla rocks". The malleable iron guards were attached with four 1/2 bolts but the castings were hefty loads to handle for the then-muscular yours truely. The bearing swap went ABC but this is about the guards.

    You can bet those Hammond guards could contain tbe burst of a new wheel. One had done so in the past: the scratches and grooves were still there graven in the casting.

    On big grinders like this there are "tongue guards", heavy steel bars mounted to adjust radially on the guard upper and lower. These are designed to close the gap between wheel and guard. Gotta keep adjusting them the wheel wears. It's all part of the containment.

    Look here:

    http://www.safteng.net/index.php?opt...131&Itemid=178

    and here"

    http://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/ehs...el_grinder.pdf
    Last edited by Forrest Addy; 09-06-2013 at 10:42 AM.

  6. #16
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    PT Doc
    Check this site there may be a arbor for you. I would just make one.
    http://www.threadedshafting.com/doub...eaded_ends.htm
    He ho don't believe in values has no values

  7. #17
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    Long Beach
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    For the price, if the quality is decent (USA made it says), hard to beat these...

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Benc...-Bearing/G5549

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-8-...le-Shaft/H8025

    Then all you need to do is make a base.

  8. #18
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    He ho don't believe in values has no values

  9. #19
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    He ho don't believe in values has no values

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    For the price, if the quality is decent (USA made it says), hard to beat these...

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Benc...-Bearing/G5549

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-8-...le-Shaft/H8025

    Then all you need to do is make a base.
    I saw that but need much larger diameter shaft and threaded. Thanks

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