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Thread: Ideas for tangential cutter tool holder?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Madison, WI
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    I like my tangential qctp holders for the fact that I can just leave the tool-post square with the axes of the lathe and never have to move it. I can face and turn any size piece without moving the post. The strength of your tool-post design is that is simple, even trivial to change the angle that you present the tool to the work. Your post doesn't need to move either, but you can mount your holders at any angle. It's not going to matter if your tangential holder is presented at 45 degrees to the axes, while your parting holder is presented at 90 degrees.

    Maybe you should leverage that strength by making a separate "bit holder" to fit a standard tool holder for your post? Something along these lines:




    could be attached to a standard tool-holder, which might work better than making all those relief grooves all over the place. . . . It seems like you're going to lose a lot of rigidity if you make a tool-holder that can wrap tightly around the post while remaining flexible enough to hold the tool-bit tightly.

    OTOH, there are even simpler designs that you could use once you have a separate "bit-holder" and "tool-holder". I've seen a very nice design with a split cotter that may work just as well and be easier to make.

    Jim

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Milwaukee
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    933

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    Jim,
    Nice work on the holders. What do you use to grind the tool bit? Is it done freehand or with a holder?

  3. #13
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    Feb 2006
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    Madison, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzig5 View Post
    Jim,
    Nice work on the holders. What do you use to grind the tool bit? Is it done freehand or with a holder?
    Thanks, gzig5. I had been doing them freehand w/ the Harbor Freight tool grinder, which has a table that can be set to 30 degrees. They seem to turn out a little better now that I'm using a jig with a v-groove to keep the bit square with the wheel. . . .

    Jim

  4. #14
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    May 2005
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    Milwaukee
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    OK, so it is just sharpened at 30 degrees from point to point? No other lead angle for sharpening because the holder takes care of that?

  5. #15
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    Mar 2014
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    IL, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzig5 View Post
    OK, so it is just sharpened at 30 degrees from point to point? No other lead angle for sharpening because the holder takes care of that?
    That's my understanding of it, but I'll let Jim2 let us know.

    So here's a design which may be easier to manufacture than iteration 2, but stronger than the initial design. What do you think?

  6. #16
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    Feb 2006
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    Madison, WI
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    Well, here's what I was describing with the split cotter. . . .




    Either way, you're on the right track.

    Yes, it's just a 30 degree angle between opposite corners. I've got it labelled in the drawing.

    Jim
    Last edited by Jim2; 12-01-2014 at 11:57 AM. Reason: added "with the split cotter"

  7. #17
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    Mar 2014
    Location
    IL, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2 View Post
    Well, here's what I was describing with the split cotter. . . .




    Either way, you're on the right track.

    Yes, it's just a 30 degree angle between opposite corners. I've got it labelled in the drawing.

    Jim
    I think I see what is going on there.

    I think having the separate bit holder would lose some of the rigidity benefits of having it as part of the tool holder.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Oroville, WA
    Posts
    12,029

    Default Bay-com is now Village Press

    Was just flipping through the adverts of the newest HSM mag and came onto this announcement. Joe Rice makes a popular version of the Diamond Toolholder and he's just retired. Sold the business to Village Press on the way out. Page 65 for the curious. When did that happen?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Near Jackson, MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2 View Post
    It can be done in essentially 3 setups:

    1) Drill the hole for the back corner of the toolbit, and the "flex" hole for clamping



    2) Machine the slot for the tool-bit. Use a slitting saw to remove the metal for one corner, a small end-mill to remove the metal from the other.




    3) Remove metal to shape the front and side of tool-holder, cut slit for clamping, drill and tap for clamp screws.




    Jim
    Jim,
    Do you have these drawing in PDF format? The print on my computer is to small for me to read the numbers. A copy of your pictures would be great also. I would like to try to build one when the weather warms up. Either post them or PM me.

    Al

  10. #20
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    Madison, WI
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    Yes, I can get these in PDF format, but this site doesn't allow attachments.

    What happens when you double-click my pics? When I do it, it takes me to photobucket. Once there I can use their tools to enlarge the pic to full size. I own the folder, so not sure if others have that level of access there. . . . Maybe give that a try first?

    Jim

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